1991 F-350

I had a locker carrier in mine without the anti-lock pickup ring. It stopped real good that way. You need to be good at driving the Old School way though. It did not cause me any problem though. I also had a 5 speed standard and used that for quite a bit of breaking. Your mileage may vary. Also metallic pads slow to seat sometimes.

Get a tool box with a built in gas tank.

Check valves on those between tanks that leak by.

Lariat Tailgate Trim is the pricy part.

Check for used hitch's, they are usually around for a bargain. Fixed balls in the bed suck, I would skip that.

Buy a Gas Station.

Other then that it's gold and drive the wheels off it.

PS: Those Trucks have the Emissions sealed Gas Caps and you can cause problems tapping into the system, and they can be very cantankerus sometimes if they don't like you. If you can seal or replace that tapped into filler hose tight, it would be a good move.

Pro Net For The Win!

^Same Same

Silicone 6000 Baby on Ford Water Pumps All Way. Especially with 1 or More Broken Bolt/Bolts Left in the Hole.

ACE Hardware Walmart any Big Outlet will Likely Have it.

DPS and Other PoPo Love To Give Revenue Collection Paper Slips for Cab/Over 1 Light Bulb Out. Cut The Wire To All  an They Never Notice or Care. Or Better Yet Bondo, Just Kidding of Course.

NO LEAKY EITHER ANYMORE. For Either of The Above

The Horns Look Good on The Net.

I See a White Truck Crying For Some Limo TinT Still. At Least As BLACK as You Can Stand and Get By With That Is.

I Did a Plainish White One That Way and it Sexted it Up Big Time.

With The Silver Aluminum Wheels Polished and Some Pimp Juice on The Shoe's For Matching Two Tone Black and White.

A Black Bug Guard Would Look Good to Break Up The Drab, but On a Bull Nose Ford it's Hard to Say.

It Would Atleast Match the Black Net on The Front, Maybe.

Looking Good, Hope the WP Bolt Comes Out, Good Thing Mother Ford Put Plenty of Extra's to Seal with a Few

Out

I Think you where typing when I was. Good on the bolt.

Was That Rusty Water or just the Picture?

If You Flush That system be careful, likely a 1991 Heater Core and Engine Gaskets. Even Fresh Anti Freeze Can Break Down What Holding Some of These Old Trucks Together.

What I am saying is Flush with straight water only. I am sure you likely know, others new to this may not.

BigBlockRanger wrote:It has (had) redish coolant in it.  Idk what kind.

Well my gasket shipment went right thru Amarillo and is now in FtWorth and headed back to Amarillo. Good grief.

I cleaned the gasket gunk and rtv off the timing cover, water pump, and backing plate.  And since it was accessible, I plumbed a mechanical oil pressure gauge into the front pressure port and mounted it in the dash.  I also repaired the fuel tank selector switch that was partially broken.

​​​​​​​I also test fit an 1999 5.0L Explorer 90 degree oil filter adapter.  It looks like it will work great.  

Looking Good.

I hope that Redish Coolant is Not That GM Orange Acid/Gel/TimeExpired Stuff?

Your Dually Inspired Me to work on my 85.

Last Night Early this Morning I got The F-250 460 Fired Off. First Time Since Before the Feb. 2021 Texas Freeze.

I Have one other Big Block that has not been run since before then. We fired it on starter fluid. Electric Fuel Pump No Workie. If That's the Only Problem I will be Very Happy. No Water in Oil and Radiator Full So That's the Main Thing I was Concerned About.

Sounds Great on Your Deal. You Really Stole that Truck Compared to The Prices around Here. Someone would Have Bought it and Done a 5.9 Cummins Swap, Likely.

I Have Some Work Left on The Fuel System on the 85 250. Need to put an Oil Pressure Gauge on it Also. The Factory Electric One Works but, I would prefer a mechanical one.

Went to look at the 612/SR-71 Deal Later, after lunch, Down the Road Texas Distance. Sweet Deal For Sure.

I Like The Green Napa 100% Antifreeze Myself. Maybe There's Some Good Red Stuff I have not Heard about?

Are You Going To Polish the Wheels? As Far as I Know they Still Sell the Green Majic Aluminum Polish in H-Town.
They Don't Ship but, I can check the supplier and see if they still have some and you can get it picked up.

I believe it was Taska? Auto Paint Supply on I-10 by the Heights, was one of the Distributors. It's Made in Texas.

I Have Never Found Anything to Equal it and it was Developed to Polish Semi Truck Wheels.

Some More Highway Friendly Gears would sure be nice, in Due Time/Money/Gas Wise.

PS; I almost forgot. When I have used that Silicone 6000 on these Ford Water Pumps, I have had to re-torque the bolts several times, like 5 it seems, as it Oze's out, and I always get a little more on the next torque sequence.

I don't know what you where planning to put on yours, if anything. I thought since I mentioned the stuff, I should mention that. In case someone else uses it, after seeing it suggested here.

It Also Sounds Like You Guy's Have it Really Rough in The Parts Department Out West, 460 Gaskets at the Warehouse over here, if not in stock, Ooch!

I don't remember the Speedo deal on 1991's as well as the break on the ring gear sensor ring. Ford Changed it somewhere down the line. Maybe when the ABS Truck's came out? As far as gear swaps and re-calibration, not sure.

I would Pull the Sensor and Clean Any Metal Dust Particals off it, or check it first.

I think they are making aftermarket GPS Speedo's now.

Might or Might Not be worth looking into?

That was a Good Move getting Rid of that Dexcool. May have lost an Inlaw's Snazy Olds due to that Crap, and I believe GM got Sued Over it. It's the stupidist thing I have ever heard of, unless you are building cars and trucks to self destruct.

The Dealerships like Honda or Nissan Green is better then anything the discount auto chains sell, at least in my opinion. It always seemed to last much longer then the Prestone anyway.

Some Where in the InterWeb Wonder Land I believe I saw Ford had a Service Bulletin out on those "1992" and up Diff Sensors to check the wiring harness first if there was a speedo and maybe Trans problem. Something about the wires breaking due to flex at the bend point's. It's been awhile but, glad you mentioned that. I was thinking of the GPS bit also for one myself for one. My 460 oil pressure went to the L cold and the first O towards the R warm, so that was good. It's almost Time for her bath after I get the fuel supply back in line to temp. proper. A used fuel cell would be the ticked I suppose.

On those plastic speedo gears sometimes the teeth get wear also. Like you said the cable likes lube also, graphite I believe.

^ I kinda figured those out board lights might be for the trailer hookup, or tied into it, after looking at the schematic in the link I put in here.

My 460 is back to Petrol Gulzzing. Pulled my my 6709 Special Ford Holley Semi Spread Bore 750 Double Pumper with C6 Kick Down and put my 770VS on. Hot/Cold Idle Cleared Up. Runs about the Same as the DP almost. Gonna go with a 20 buck knock off of the Edlbrock Green Electric Fuel Pump.

I would leave the dash along forever is it was not something major. That plastic is a pain an breaks too easy.

^ Probably Breaks Better in the Cold of Winter?

The Old Ford Trucks sure are fun to play with. Parts prices are not bad either and used parts abound is one thing I like about them.

Oh Yea and They will Run Forever While the New Stuff is Headed to the Crusher.

I was doing my Weld One Piece Truck Drag Lights tonight.

You Gotta Get some of this stuff if you own aluminum wheels are anything else Shinny Aluminum!

I have tried everything else, Nothing and I Mean Nothing Else Comes Close if You want your Aluminum to Shine Like Chrome.



https://www.dougsts.com/Green-Magic-Plus_p_18.html


I believe this was the H-Town Dealer.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Taska+Automotive+finisihs+HYouston+Tx.+Heights&sca_esv=569785043&sxsrf=AM9HkKm6UDFShVAWq0AaBLOhz8MOSOIr0A%3A1696128048444&ei=MNwYZZTXGq-4qtsPkIurkA8&ved=0ahUKEwiUr8iu6dOBAxUvnGoFHZDFCvIQ4dUDCBE&oq=Taska+Automotive+finisihs+HYouston+Tx.+Heights&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiLlRhc2thIEF1dG9tb3RpdmUgZmluaXNpaHMgSFlvdXN0b24gVHguIEhlaWdodHMyBxAhGKABGAoyBxAhGKABGApIreMCUABYsMwCcAB4AJABAZgBtAGgAc87qgEFNTkuMjS4AQzIAQD4AQHCAgYQLhgHGB7CAgYQABgHGB7CAhUQLhgHGB4YlwUY3AQY3gQY4ATYAQHCAggQABgHGB4YCsICBRAAGIAEwgIHEAAYDRiABMICDRAuGA0YgAQYxwEY0QPCAgkQLhgNGIAEGArCAhwQLhgNGIAEGMcBGNEDGJcFGNwEGN4EGOAE2AEBwgIFEAAYogTCAgYQABgeGA3CAgoQIRigARjDBBgKwgIFECEYqwLiAwQYACBBiAYBugYGCAEQARgU&sclient=gws-wiz-serp#rlimm=11211156863731197683&lpg=cid:CgIgAQ%3D%3D,ik:CAoSLEFGMVFpcFBIeVphYi00NmVZXzNLc3pickZYN0hDQi1TdzVidFR0eU1HZzVV

My Drag Lights set up for 2 years or so and 30 minutes or less and one Already Looks Chrome.

BigBlockRanger wrote:The plastic striker pin sleeves were gone, so I installed a new set. Man, the doors shut NIIIIIIIIIICE now!!!



Started working on brakes. This stuff is big. Haha.

The pad are thin and the hoses are toast. Hubs will spin forever if you give them a whirl.



New hoses, pads, and I adjusted the rears. One rear was close, the other was not.

Pedal is better, but still lower than I would like. Kinda like it does not have enough volume It stops fine, you just have to push it a long way to get there. The master cylinder was replaced in 2017 or so and that got me wondering if they put the wrong one in. Like a smaller one for an F-150 or something.

So I started doing some research and found A LOT of folks with the same problem. I finally found a reference to a Ford TSB about this very problem in the later 90's models. Their fix is to use a master cylinder with a larger bore. The stock one is 1.125" bore and the replacement is 1.25". More research showed that others have successfully applied this same TSB to earlier year model trucks. I found the right one on Rockauto and I ordered it this morning.

While I was crawling around under it I removed some previous owner weirdness under the bed. There is an electric fuel pump under there and best I can tell it was used to transfer fuel from a bed mounted reserve tank to the front tank. There is a plugged rubber line from the pump the pokes thru the bed floor. The other line runs from the pump up to the top of the front tank filler tube. I removed all the wiring and some bracketry that I think was for a bedside step. I will pull the pump out later and remove/plug the hoses.

I looked and looked for the tank selector valve. Never found it. There is a good reason for that. From what I read, 1991 models (maybe others?) don't have one. The fuel tank selector switch just turns on the in-tank pump for whatever tank you have selected.

I got Bit on my Master Cylinder Too!

I am going with the 1.125" Bore. Napa 59 Bucks.

The Nice Counter Lady said Oct. 14 8-10AM 30% off if payed then will be ordered. $36.00 Bucks,Yea.
Seal Kit for a MC rebuild from them from ChiTown over 40 with Shipping. No Thanks for a Honed out Rusted Bore Attempt.

https://www.top5.com/coupons/napa-auto-parts

You Gonna Be Ready to Linem Up Soon?    I Promise Not to Spray.

I Got the Other Big Block Fired a Couple of Days ago. She's Fun Semi Sideways in a Short Bed Boiling Big Mickey's Between Ditch's, Without The Easy Button Even Prssed!

You Went and Done Did it Now. The Good The Bad and/or The Ugly.

I Started on My Bull Nose 4 Door 7.3 Dually.

That Stupid 85 F250 XLT HD 7.5/460 Lost me 20+ Pounds and at Least 10 Points of Blood Pressure {As in Lower, So That's Good I Guess}. Shit Happens When You Turn Off The FJB and Other News.

At Least It Did Not Cost Much More Then Chump Change So Far.

I Drug Out my SJC Repop Hardin/Harmon WTF Ever Marine Cast Iron Intake to Clean Up and Paint as Well as Picked Up a Little New Bump Stick and Lifters for 1/2 or Less Price, Then New, on Flee By The Bay... It May of May Not Go in It. The ShitBox Does Not Leak a Drop of Oil, Water or Any Other Liquid Now. Really Hate To Open it Up but, an Intake, That I Have, Meh, Why Not. The Top End Can Look Pretty at Least in Quik Silver Mercury Gloss Black...

I was Looking at the Heads that Came with the above Intake and They are D3 Marine Heads with No Exhaust Bump, Ported to the Bowls, on The Exhaust Side. No Air Holes Either. They Have Big 1.520" Springs With Dampers and Hardened Retainers. They Had CJ/SCJ Spring Pads Also, Until I Robbed Them for Something Else.

^ The D3's are Tempting but, Too Much Pain for Not Enough Gain. I'll Buy the Gaskets, and Do a Valve Job, if You want to Come Bolt Them on.

I'll Even Throw in a Set of Ceramic Coated 1 7/8" Sanderson Headers, Since, I don't Know, Because  

The Dually is Going Too... be More Problematic and Might/Could Cost a Few Bills. We'll See, It May Go Back to Hibrination, If it Is.

Trucks are Fun Fast Trucks are Funner

X SCJ Marine Cast Iron Swap.

Blue Thunder FTW. Been Looking At it for Over 5 Years with Carburetors, Linkage , NOS Plates and Cobra Hat.

Time to Try It.

It Ain't Right but I Bet it Goes Pretty Good, and I can Put Black Springs in the Secondary's and Probably be 850CFM or Less. 600Cfm if I Lock Them Out Completely.