All Cast Iron Street Performance Build

supervel45 wrote:I would not call it exactly negative, more like realistic.

Yeah, I know. Just funnin'.

Think I may change the thread to "let's see how much power I can make with the junk I have".
I probably have enough stuff laying around (including an aluminum intake) to build a fairly healthy 468. A couple things off the top of my head I know I don't have is a nice carburetor and headers.
Gonna go through my parts stash tomorrow and see what I can come up with.
Will report back with pics.

BBFTorino wrote:Throw a hidden nitrous kit on it, it'll go high 11's then!!

If you want to get a boat to fly on the cheap and streetable, this is the best way I know of, assuming you have traction. 11's and 12's are pretty common now for late model performance cars and old trailer queens are not for everyone.

Years ago, pre-internet days, I screwed together a cheap 466 for my former '79 F-100 short box 2wd.
I used cheap Badger cast pistons, car rods with stock rod bolts, and reground stock crank--unbalanced. D0VE-As with stock valves and smog bumps removed from exhaust port topped the shortblock.
As far as performance parts--Crane sft cam 246/256 @.050 .563/.583 lift, Torker II intake, used Holley 750 DP with choke horn milled off and cheap Flowtech headers.
Running through a C-6 with 3000 TCI stall to 3.89 traction lok early Bronco 9" with street legal drag tires, the truck ran consistant 12:80s @ around 100 mph with a best of 12:82 @ 101. 3900-4000# with me in it. Totally streetable. I drove this truck every day.

My 11 second goal may have been way optimistic but I feel 12s for this car are within reason--especially losing the cast iron restriction.

I still have the original Torker II and Crane cam from that engine.

1EFF100 wrote:Years ago, pre-internet days, I screwed together a cheap 466 for my former '79 F-100 short box 2wd.
I used cheap Badger cast pistons, car rods with stock rod bolts, and reground stock crank--unbalanced. D0VE-As with stock valves and smog bumps removed from exhaust port topped the shortblock.
As far as performance parts--Crane sft cam 246/256 @.050 .563/.583 lift, Torker II intake, used Holley 750 DP with choke horn milled off and cheap Flowtech headers.
Running through a C-6 with 3000 TCI stall to 3.89 traction lok early Bronco 9" with street legal drag tires, the truck ran consistant 12:80s @ around 100 mph with a best of 12:82 @ 101. 3900-4000# with me in it. Totally streetable. I drove this truck every day.

My 11 second goal may have been way optimistic but I feel 12s for this car are within reason--especially losing the cast iron restriction.

I still have the original Torker II and Crane cam from that engine.

That Crane cam and Torquer II intake will make good power at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE but, part throttle transitions just driving it around will be terrible in that car.
You REALLY need to make up you mind about what is actually your priority here.

rmcomprandy wrote:

1EFF100 wrote:Years ago, pre-internet days, I screwed together a cheap 466 for my former '79 F-100 short box 2wd.
I used cheap Badger cast pistons, car rods with stock rod bolts, and reground stock crank--unbalanced. D0VE-As with stock valves and smog bumps removed from exhaust port topped the shortblock.
As far as performance parts--Crane sft cam 246/256 @.050 .563/.583 lift, Torker II intake, used Holley 750 DP with choke horn milled off and cheap Flowtech headers.
Running through a C-6 with 3000 TCI stall to 3.89 traction lok early Bronco 9" with street legal drag tires, the truck ran consistant 12:80s @ around 100 mph with a best of 12:82 @ 101. 3900-4000# with me in it. Totally streetable. I drove this truck every day.

My 11 second goal may have been way optimistic but I feel 12s for this car are within reason--especially losing the cast iron restriction.

I still have the original Torker II and Crane cam from that engine.

That Crane cam and Torquer II intake will make good power at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE but, part throttle transitions just driving it around will be terrible in that car.
You REALLY need to make up you mind about what is actually your priority here.

Always appreciate your directness, Randy.

Okay, I've officially dropped the all cast iron build idea.
What I would like to do IF POSSIBLE is build a strong running engine using as many parts as I already have. A 12 second behemoth in the quarter--IF POSSIBLE--but fun to drive on the street. A stumbling idle and stall convertor are fine. But I guess the priority would be on the killer running street side of things since that's where the car will spend most of its time.

I may be picking up a never used Ford version of the Performer RPM.
Also have a new in box M-6250-A443 camshaft I'd like to use. I know it has slow ramps but that's at least easier on the valve train.

1EFF100 wrote:

rmcomprandy wrote:

1EFF100 wrote:Years ago, pre-internet days, I screwed together a cheap 466 for my former '79 F-100 short box 2wd.
I used cheap Badger cast pistons, car rods with stock rod bolts, and reground stock crank--unbalanced. D0VE-As with stock valves and smog bumps removed from exhaust port topped the shortblock.
As far as performance parts--Crane sft cam 246/256 @.050 .563/.583 lift, Torker II intake, used Holley 750 DP with choke horn milled off and cheap Flowtech headers.
Running through a C-6 with 3000 TCI stall to 3.89 traction lok early Bronco 9" with street legal drag tires, the truck ran consistant 12:80s @ around 100 mph with a best of 12:82 @ 101. 3900-4000# with me in it. Totally streetable. I drove this truck every day.

My 11 second goal may have been way optimistic but I feel 12s for this car are within reason--especially losing the cast iron restriction.

I still have the original Torker II and Crane cam from that engine.

That Crane cam and Torquer II intake will make good power at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE but, part throttle transitions just driving it around will be terrible in that car.
You REALLY need to make up you mind about what is actually your priority here.

Always appreciate your directness, Randy.

Okay, I've officially dropped the all cast iron build idea.
What I would like to do IF POSSIBLE is build a strong running engine using as many parts as I already have. A 12 second behemoth in the quarter--IF POSSIBLE--but fun to drive on the street. A stumbling idle and stall convertor are fine. But I guess the priority would be on the killer running street side of things since that's where the car will spend most of its time.

I may be picking up a never used Ford version of the Performer RPM.
Also have a new in box M-6250-A443 camshaft I'd like to use. I know it has slow ramps but that's at least easier on the valve train.

The information provided here, though more detailed, is no different that on the 460 forum.

Use your RPM style intake,
Have the A443 cam core reground
Copy the build linked on the other forum and have about 490 to 500 HP at a reasonable rpm peak...
Call Stan Johnson at FPA.


S

Thank you, Scott!

Yesterday I brought the crank by my friend/machinest to have it polished. It polished out pretty nice but there is a couple  blemishes and I need your opinions if it can be run as is or send it out for a regrind. It measured out well but a half a thou out of round on the rod journals.

Before: https://photos.smugmug.com/My-First-Gallery/i-VDL8VNK/0/c28d041c/M/DSC03237-M.jpg

After:  https://photos.smugmug.com/My-First-Gallery/i-BBgZJRw/0/c306c1ba/M/DSC03241-M.jpg

Problem areas:  https://photos.smugmug.com/My-First-Gallery/i-mW53TVT/0/31e13763/M/DSC03242-M.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/My-First-Gallery/i-cKbkx4s/0/51d4627c/M/DSC03245-M.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/My-First-Gallery/i-MnZSXsD/0/1be2e51d/M/DSC03243-M.jpg

This crank is out of an engine I bought that had been rebuilt in the '80s but had sat in storage for probably 20 years before i got it. I pulled it down for inspection and found that mice had made a home of it and had peed in the cylinders and the bottom end and it had rusted up pretty substantially where this occurred.
One of the heads was rendered unusable because of it. One intake port was completely rusted shut.    Never seen anything like it.

I have what amounts to a 521" PI engine. Heads done per Scotty's instructions and a SMALL hyd roller. On 87 octane (9.2 cr) I fully expect 500 hp and it looks totally stock. I AM going to use headers because the power gain is too hard to pass up. Fords do not like to be choked up. I will post dyno results after I run it.

gt350hr wrote:    I have what amounts to a 521" PI engine. Heads done per Scotty's instructions and a SMALL hyd roller. On 87 octane (9.2 cr) I fully expect 500 hp and it looks totally stock. I AM going to use headers because the power gain is too hard to pass up. Fords do not like to be choked up. I will post dyno results after I run it.

Cool! I'll be looking forward to your dyno results.

No comments on my crank blem pics?

The crank needs to be ground in my opinion. I would not run it with what I see in the pictures without grinding.

gt350hr wrote:   The crank needs to be ground in my opinion. I would not run it with what I see in the pictures without grinding.

x2

gt350hr wrote:   The crank needs to be ground in my opinion. I would not run it with what I see in the pictures without grinding.

69F100 wrote:

gt350hr wrote:   The crank needs to be ground in my opinion. I would not run it with what I see in the pictures without grinding.

x2

Well, that reinforces what I felt on the matter, although I was kinda hoping someone would say "ah, no problem, run it."  
Thanks for the reply, guys.