Here you go, I hope you can read it

BillBallinger November 23rd 2009, 4:32 pm

rmcomprandy wrote:
BillBallinger wrote:
rmcomprandy wrote:I think it's great to be able to adapt all kinds of production stuff to work well. I have a bunch of that kind of stuff from "Take-Offs" which is just sitting around and simply knowing about these kinda things intrigues me.
Do you have information on how to use a complete TFI V8 distributor with its locked timing and "Hall" trigger in it and that kind of plug-in module, which will work seperately with just a coil and the power goin" to whatever right places...?
I've got plenty of those, lol.

If you could run locked timing it would be pretty straight forward. You know how when you unhook the set timing connector when you are setting the timing? The computer is setting the "spout" to the same value as the "pip" with the set timing connector unhooked. If you wired your own loom the same as with the points one except you included the "spout" with the "pip", "run" and keyed source, it would be like locking the a regular distributor out to whatever you set it to physically. You could set it to say 34°-36° with your light and it would have that all the time. When you are making your loom you would just run the "spout" wire in with the other two, the "pip" and "run" to a keyed source and branch off to the + side of the coil. You would then have 34°-36° (or whatever you set it at) of locked out timing. If you had trouble cranking you could wire a toggle in that kills the ignition, but allows the starter to crank as normal, and then hit the ignition once you have it spinning. It wouldn't have any advance, just what you set the dizzy to.

You got me to thinking of doing this on my 466, put a TFI dist in, and the works, gray TFI IV module TFI coil etc, set the distributor at say 34°-36°, and use a kill toggle switch for starting, then crank it and turn the ignition on when its got oil pressure and is ready to light. The "pip" kicks out at 200 rpms and the "spout" takes over, so thats why you would want pin #5 "spout" wired in.

There's no advance without the computer, but you could use it in any race car where you lock the tioming anyway.

Could you make a quick schematic of this as I'm pretty bad at following text...

rmcomprandy November 24th 2009, 2:47 am

I understad the 6 pin module, Bill.
Without using an ECM, I wish to know how to hook-up, I think it's a 3 external; maybe 4 external pin module, which attaches to a V8 TFI distributor with "Hall" effect without using an advance curve.

BillBallinger November 24th 2009, 7:08 am

rmcomprandy wrote:I understad the 6 pin module, Bill.
Without using an ECM, I wish to know how to hook-up, I think it's a 3 external; maybe 4 external pin module, which attaches to a V8 TFI distributor with "Hall" effect without using an advance curve.

I'll study up on that one, but I believe you can hook the distributor into the top pins and wire the six in the back just like the schenatic. Just grind away the fins on the hear sink and lengthen the wires. But, I'll look and see. and let you know.

Thats how I planned to do it on mine. but we'll see.

BillBallinger November 24th 2009, 7:25 am

BillBallinger wrote:
rmcomprandy wrote:I understad the 6 pin module, Bill.
Without using an ECM, I wish to know how to hook-up, I think it's a 3 external; maybe 4 external pin module, which attaches to a V8 TFI distributor with "Hall" effect without using an advance curve.

I'll study up on that one, but I believe you can hook the distributor into the top pins and wire the six in the back just like the schenatic. Just grind away the fins on the hear sink and lengthen the wires. But, I'll look and see. and let you know.

Thats how I planned to do it on mine. but we'll see.

http://www.gofastforless.com/ignition/tfi.htm I ran across this last night, I got the idea originally from a motorcycle site, but this one seems to be more what we are looking for with the original type dizzy. It appears that you remotely mount the module by trimming the fins off a closed bowl heat sink, extend the distributor wires and run the "run" pin to the coil + with an ignition 12V source at the coil and the next to the bottom pin to the negative side of the coil with the toggle on it.

rmcomprandy November 24th 2009, 3:21 pm

That guy in the link and you have the module numbers reversed from one another but, I get the picture; which really is the correct numbering sequence for the module..?

BillBallinger November 25th 2009, 12:40 am

rmcomprandy wrote:That guy in the link and you have the module numbers reversed from one another but, I get the picture; which really is the correct numbering sequence for the module..?

The one on my schematic was what I used so it must be correct, because it runs good. . You want the "run" on the + side of the coil and the "Coil Negative" on the -side of the coil and the "Module Ground" to a screw on a good clean metal surface. I am using an E-Coil too, the square TFI one, and the pins are reversed on it too compared to a can coil, BTW. You'll see it on a coil plug, but if you are using spades, the terminals are opposite.

Hope this helps. I can't think of anything else, but if i come up with something I'll thow it on out. I am looking forward to giving it a shot with locked timing on the 466, but all I have are FE's right now. Nothing with a Hall Effect at the moment. A 351W would make a good test.

BillBallinger November 27th 2009, 8:37 am

My nephew is supposed to have a 5.0L (347 Mustang) car in this week thats pretty hot and needs locked timing. I gave him a schematic and he is going to use it to see how it scopes out. So hopefully, if the guy makes it in off hte road this week, we will have a running test complete with a converted heat sink module, stock hall dizzy and no computer. We are thinking about starting conservative 34° locked out with a kill switch for the ignition, and see that it shows a "PIP" and "Spout" on the scope, and no ping, and if it will take it, go up to 36°. Its a drag only car, no street.

I hope to be able to report any anomalies (I don't expect any) on the wave form. It should be a consistant square wave, and we have an infrared thermometer that he has altready done a baseline temp reading of the coil, module and dist cap over 250 miles of combination street and highway miles with his dad's 5.8L '96 F150, 60 miles of which had a trailer on it with a car they towed in. He is going to clip it to this one to check for module and Hall (dist cap) and coil heat up. If it stays cool and shows a consistant wave form from cool to hot it should prove out. I did it on my points on with the thermometer and its cool as a cucumber, no rise at all from start up to shut down and only 10° of heat soak, which went away after starting it back up and getting the fan blowing on it. Pretty cool so far. I pulled the cap and rotor after my son drove up to get some gas in it, and before the points would be hot enough you couldn't keep your fingertip on them, now they are just warm, and barely, the thermometer said 101° and it was 80° out.

Keeping it all cool will be the key to making it live. Fords ignition stuff is tough. The TFI, once you get the module off the distributor is dead reliable. They (my bro in law and nephew) were really sceptical at first, thought I was nuts, but they are willing to try it out now, my nephew wants to put it on his boat's inboard. Laughing

I hope he gets to test it locked out this week, the '96 F150 5.8 of his dad's stayed as cool as mine with points even towing.

I'll let you know how it turns out.

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Here you go, I hope you can read it

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You can run without the three pins and just use the 6

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Number sequence

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