36-1 crank trigger wheel

I need to find a source for a 36-1 trigger wheel.

I have seen the universal ones at diyautotune and the ones across the pond from triggerwheels.com. I am not all that impressed.

I am using the factory serpentine belt system so wheel attachment method is important. The idea of a longer crank bolt with spacers behind it just seems kind of rigged.

If you have an ATI, or Innovators West Balancer, those companies can make you a balancer shell with the trigger pattern machined into it. Also, Ford Modular Engines use a 36-1 crank trigger. You might be able to machine one to fit your application.

http://www.millersmule.com/MillersMuleStore/en/edis/41-36-1-trigger-wheel.html

might help

Thanks that will work. At least this is one of the few places that understands it has to have a balance hole on the opposite side of the missing tooth or teeth. Some of the ones from across the pond don't have this.
Also gave me a great idea for mounting to the backside of the serp pulley and still allow me adjustment to dial it in correctly. Just noticed after me mentioning a balance hole that it is missing one in the pic.

I assume you are working on a 460. Below is a link to a post from Danny Cabral's 460 and he mounted the crank trigger to the dampener spacer. Adjustment would be made at the sensor instead of the wheel like you posted. Just a little different from the norm so I figured I would share it.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/85220/thread/1277675370/My+MPFI+Intake+Manifold+Conversion

SandHillsHillbilly wrote:Thanks that will work. At least this is one of the few places that understands it has to have a balance hole on the opposite side of the missing tooth or teeth. Some of the ones from across the pond don't have this.
Also gave me a great idea for mounting to the backside of the serp pulley and still allow me adjustment to dial it in correctly. Just noticed after me mentioning a balance hole that it is missing one in the pic.

if you look at that picture again you will notice that it is a balanced wheel. Look how deep the cuts are.

We run the 58x, or 60-2 stuff whatever you want to call it, on our ride and we didn't worry about balance. That little bit of difference is negligible when you are talking about the entire system. We also move the sensor rather than the wheel.

I have seen that. Danny is using the Holley hall effect sensor. I am going with all off the shelf parts that I can find at any parts store. I don't want to be stuck somewhere for days waiting on a replacement part. As it stands right now I am going to use a Ford VR sensor from a Taurus 3.0L V6.

I realize most use a moveable sensor but I decided to do setup on the engine stand. Using a fix sensor allows me to do an easy replacement in the middle of the woods. Look at Danny's pic he would have to adjust it every time he replaced it. Even looks from the pic that he would have to either remove the bracket or the alternator to replace the sensor.

All I have to do at initial install is set the missing tooth at TDC and mount the sensor 5 teeth before missing tooth. Any slight error can be corrected in the ECU. With the two screw mounting it is a simple operation to replace. Just adjust the gap if needed.

we use factory gm sensors. any parts store carries those as well. We use them for the crank and cam sensor. as most people call them the black one and the gray one.

whatbumper wrote:we use factory gm sensors.  any parts store carries those as well.  We use them for the crank and cam sensor.  as most people call them the black one and the gray one.

Can you give me the particulars on the sensors you are using? I have no problem with using GM. The only sensors I have that are Ford are the crank and cam, every thing else is GM even the coils.

SandHillsHillbilly wrote:

whatbumper wrote:we use factory gm sensors.  any parts store carries those as well.  We use them for the crank and cam sensor.  as most people call them the black one and the gray one.

Can you give me the particulars on the sensors you are using? I have no problem with using GM. The only sensors I have that are Ford are the crank and cam, every thing else is GM even the coils.

Sorry, been busy all weekend at the track. I'll post part numbers when I get back to the house.

whatbumper wrote:

SandHillsHillbilly wrote:

whatbumper wrote:we use factory gm sensors.  any parts store carries those as well.  We use them for the crank and cam sensor.  as most people call them the black one and the gray one.

Can you give me the particulars on the sensors you are using? I have no problem with using GM. The only sensors I have that are Ford are the crank and cam, every thing else is GM even the coils.

Sorry, been busy all weekend at the track.  I'll post part numbers when I get back to the house.  

Did you find out which sensors you are using?

SandHillsHillbilly wrote:

whatbumper wrote:

SandHillsHillbilly wrote:

whatbumper wrote:we use factory gm sensors.  any parts store carries those as well.  We use them for the crank and cam sensor.  as most people call them the black one and the gray one.

Can you give me the particulars on the sensors you are using? I have no problem with using GM. The only sensors I have that are Ford are the crank and cam, every thing else is GM even the coils.

Sorry, been busy all weekend at the track.  I'll post part numbers when I get back to the house.  

Did you find out which sensors you are using?

Sorry. It really slipped my mine. I'll go dig and post it tomorrow. I know we bought them from NAPA for pretty cheap. I went in and asked for a grey one and a black one as per directions from a cnp expert. I'll get it together.

Thanks

http://www.procarassociates.com/item--GM-LS2-Cam-Sensor--GMLS2CamSensor.html

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/products/Crankshaft-Position-Sensor-New-GM-LT1%7B47%7DLS1%7B47%7DLS2%7B47%7DLS6%7B47%7DLS3%7B47%7DLS7.html

These are the ones we used but I got them from napa.

Thanks that does give me more options.

The cam position was an easy choice with the unit from Price Motorsports.