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Engine shut off during race.

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richter69
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Engine shut off during race. Empty Engine shut off during race.

Post  t-bird racer August 26th 2012, 11:30 am

Ok. guys get your thinking caps out. Last week during first round eliminations car was 200 feet into the run and it shut off momentarily then came right back on. It happened so fast I didn't even have time to check the fuel pressure gauge. It literately felt like you turned a light switch off then on again real fast. Lost five mph, and ran a 6.08 on a 6.00. (won the round due to opponent breaking out) So far I have checked all grounds, all connections, checked needle and seats, reset float level, fuel pump flow, timing, the only thing that looked slightly suspicious was the MSD Purple and green plug that comes from the MSD box. The two pin connector looked like in was loose inside and a little wiggly. I cut it out and wired it directly.

Second round the the car performed flawlessly.

Anyone have a similar problem? Did I get lucky and find the needle in a haystack??? Could the MSD Box or Coil be going bad??? I also have a crank trigger. (New last year) All ignition components are approximately 5 1/2 years old.

Thanks for looking.
Rich
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Post  BigDave65 August 26th 2012, 11:43 am

Crank Trigger pickup going bad. Mine did the same thing last week.
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Post  richter69 August 26th 2012, 11:45 am

those connectors are junk, i always cut them off and replace with weatherpack connectors.......
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Post  t-bird racer August 26th 2012, 3:57 pm

How do I check the crank trigger?? Do I just ohm test for resistance or do they just go open? I have the Innovators West crank trigger.
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Post  BigDave65 August 26th 2012, 4:59 pm








I just hooked my distributor back up and it quit missing. Not sure how to check it!












i
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Post  t-bird racer August 26th 2012, 5:06 pm

I don't have that option. On a prior occasion the rotor button screws came loose and ended up between the pick up and the wheel breaking all the teeth off of the wheel. lol
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Post  bbf-falcon August 26th 2012, 10:12 pm

richter69 wrote:those connectors are junk, i always cut them off and replace with weatherpack connectors.......

What Fabio said,mine did the same thing twice one weekend. Did away w/connector and it stopped. Those plugin's suck Mad

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Post  t-bird racer August 26th 2012, 11:05 pm

That's what I'm hoping. I cut it out between rounds and it didn't happen again. Hopefully i got it. I checked everything and did not find it. I was brain storming with another racer
and he told me about those plugs. But does anyone know how to check the Crank Triggers??????
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Post  69F100 August 26th 2012, 11:42 pm

ohm it out not sure what the ohms are we had one on a fork lift here go out i ohmed the new one it ohm ouy bit the old did not just showed open that was on a cat lift but i beleave they should work the same
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Post  AL Q August 27th 2012, 12:17 am

Mine did the same thing this weekend, had a buddy wiggle all the wires relating to the ignition and found the plug was the culprit. Had a new msd wire in the trailer, switched it out and went to the semi final with no more problems
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Post  t-bird racer August 27th 2012, 12:08 pm

I just got of the phone with innovators west and they said to ohm test across both pins and reading should be 65-85.
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Post  56Tbird August 28th 2012, 5:30 pm

Better be checking the engine and watching it closely on oil pressure. I've had the ignition cut out on mine twice like that now at WOT,the 1st time it split a cylinder and bent the crank,2nd time it blew both head gaskets and bent a crank. Neither time did the crank show up until it cleaned a bearing.Hope your luck is better than mine!!
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Post  richter69 August 28th 2012, 5:52 pm

no fire and wot on an injected engine = bad news, I know you had some issues with the carbed one too Dan but it had like 48-1 compression or something lol.

glad your cam sensor is doing much better............who won the race????? Razz
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Post  56Tbird August 28th 2012, 8:21 pm

The 1st was the carbed engine at 16.5 to 1 ,ignition switch went bad(painless wiring rocker switch)It took a little while to figure it out,would just go on and off going down the track,finally figured it out because of the irratic shifting. 2nd time was a low oil pressure shut off switch doing the same thing...cutting the engine on and off at WOT.$20 switch took out a few thousand dollars worth of parts.Worse part ..I was against putting it on to start with..I won the race...As Usual Razz king
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