Engine still popping...

dirt_worker wrote:Ive had a bad ground on my msd box before that had me scratchin my head. Im not sure if thats what you've got goin on here but its worth mentioning.

Yea im not sure about that one, Kinda think it is okay because it goes all the way to the battery. but i will give it a look

dfree383 wrote:Put a dial indicator on the suspected cylinder and check the cam Lift and compare it to the others and what your cam card says it should be. Also get a spring tester and check your springs.

I have no idea what the cam specs are, i bought this engine from someone, all the guy said was it had a "3/4" cam in it so i have no idea what it is supposed to be. I do know that both are in fact moving good, and look to be as much as the rest it is but that is just by the naked eye.

Old blue Racin Team wrote:

dfree383 wrote:Put a dial indicator on the suspected cylinder and check the cam Lift and compare it to the others and what your cam card says it should be. Also get a spring tester and check your springs.

I have no idea what the cam specs are, i bought this engine from someone, all the guy said was it had a "3/4" cam in it so i have no idea what it is supposed to be. I do know that both are in fact moving good, and look to be as much as the rest it is but that is just by the naked eye.

That's your problem, you need a Full cam in it,,,,,, old school talk. You can still do as Dave suggests, by comparing the other intake and exhaust valve lifts to the one cyl in question. You could have .050 - .075 or more loss in that cyl's lift and not see it to the naked eye.
Is there a chance one of your hydraulic lifters is bleeding down or collapsing?

Cap? Rotor? Wire? Plug looks like its not burning fuel very well.

Could be an intake leak at the head. That plug looks like its burning some oil to me.

racnrick wrote:

Old blue Racin Team wrote:

dfree383 wrote:Put a dial indicator on the suspected cylinder and check the cam Lift and compare it to the others and what your cam card says it should be. Also get a spring tester and check your springs.

I have no idea what the cam specs are, i bought this engine from someone, all the guy said was it had a "3/4" cam in it so i have no idea what it is supposed to be. I do know that both are in fact moving good, and look to be as much as the rest it is but that is just by the naked eye.

That's your problem, you need a Full cam in it,,,,,, old school talk. You can still do as Dave suggests, by comparing the other intake and exhaust valve lifts to the one cyl in question. You could have .050 - .075 or more loss in that cyl's lift and not see it to the naked eye.
Is there a chance one of your hydraulic lifters is bleeding down or collapsing?

Lol

Ill have to borrow a gauge sometime and check it to see.

cool40 wrote:Could be an intake leak at the head. That plug looks like its burning some oil to me.

That is kinda what i was wondering, BUT the oil stay's dead on the "full" mark between change's It does get a hint of fuel smell after probally 15-20 pass's

bowsher21 wrote: Cap? Rotor? Wire? Plug looks like its not burning fuel very well.

Its got a brandnew set of wire's on it, I swapped wires between #1 and #5 and nothing changed with the plug, I took the Cap off and cleaned up the contacts in side of it and on the rotor the pop defintally settled down some after the new wires and the cleaning of the cap and rotor, May have to pick up a new cap and just see since that is pretty cheap

what kind of distributor you run? vac advance or mec?

Me, I have to know. I'd need to definitively get to the bottom of it because it would make my eye twitch. You've obviously got something funky going on in the #5 hole so you have it narrowed. Check the cap on the #5 post, check the #5 wire, watch the plug spark with it hooked up out of the head. Pull the valve cover and idle it for a few moments watching the rocker action on #5 (too see if it moves funny like a bad cam lobe). If the problem didn't say "Hi" yet I'd look at pulling the head. Intake gasket at the #5 port leaking oil into that port, head gasket blown around that cylinder. I'd dig deaper until it was obvious what was f'ed up.

cool40 wrote:what kind of distributor you run? vac advance or mec?

Its a stock dizzy

4thHorseman wrote:Me, I have to know. I'd need to definitively get to the bottom of it because it would make my eye twitch. You've obviously got something funky going on in the #5 hole so you have it narrowed. Check the cap on the #5 post, check the #5 wire, watch the plug spark with it hooked up out of the head. Pull the valve cover and idle it for a few moments watching the rocker action on #5 (too see if it moves funny like a bad cam lobe). If the problem didn't say "Hi" yet I'd look at pulling the head. Intake gasket at the #5 port leaking oil into that port, head gasket blown around that cylinder. I'd dig deaper until it was obvious what was f'ed up.

Intake was just off of it, it just is weird to me how it runs with out popping while racing, its only in Park/Neutral so when the engine isnt under a load...

Is the vac advance hooked or unhooked?

Old school vacuum leak detector.. Let it idle and squirt a small amount of starter fluid around the intake manifold..RPM'S will increase if it sucks the fluid in...It works great on anything else that might be leaking on the intake side..I dont know if your problem is caused by a vacuum leak , but it wont cost much to check it,,,unless it catches on fire!

Larry have you tried changing the carb if you have not try changing the carb and see if it stops poping I have seem carbs do some crazy stuff and have you looking in the wrong places for the problem

J.Toney wrote:Is the vac advance hooked or unhooked?

Un hooked

Dave C. wrote:Old school vacuum leak detector.. Let it idle and squirt a small amount of starter fluid around the intake manifold..RPM'S will increase if it sucks the fluid in...It works great on anything else that might be leaking on the intake side..I dont know if your problem is caused by a vacuum leak , but it wont cost much to check it,,,unless it catches on fire!

Ill have to give it a go u actually thought about it but forgot to pick up a can of ether. but itll be the weekend for i mess with it again

69F100 wrote:Larry have you tried changing the carb if you have not try changing the carb and see if it stops poping I have seem carbs do some crazy stuff and have you looking in the wrong places for the problem

I would but dont have anything except a 600 right now

the 600 will work put it on if the popping goes away with it then you will know it is from the carb but if it still popping you know it not in the carb Also try pulling the #5 plug wire off and see if the popping goes away if it don't you will know the #5 not the problem.

Update!

Haven't had a chance to mess with it, been working on my DD, new front hubs, then both rear wheel cylinder's blew up. so been spending all my free time on it