Broke forward drum after mig welding the peanut holes solid.

Will post pics as soon as my dad does it lol. It lasted 30 something passes instead of 2. I dont see trying to use a stock one again unless we find somehting done wrong with the welded one. I used a early c4 drum thats supposed to be stronger and it sure does have a differant sound when hit and a differant tint also. The early one rings like a still crank does when hit with metal and the c5 just makes a thud. I hope theres another drum beside the billet that cost $500 dollars thats stronger. I guess i got all winter to decide what to do. \
cracked drum
cracked drum

does the weld not being welded good to end so there be less the grind off make it weeker? I could get another one welded better and have this one end milled so there is no flaws.

Powerglide ftw...........

So Richter what all do i need for a swap? Bell, core , valve body brake, input shaft. first gear? Just trying to get a idea of investment. I would probably run a 350-400 converter with the shaft swap. I think ,my flywheel has both patterns. Also need a pilot adapter, new crossmember, driveshaft. It woulkd be better to buy a use one if i could get a good deal So you say there is a upside that car might go faster??

I got a deal on a used ultrabell and jw wheel, bought a good unit, Im in tight with Lenny at UCC so the converter part didn't hurt so bad............... less converter I'm in for about 2500............The unit is a stock case deal but the internals are all good stuff.

Shifter and driveshaft another 400 bucks..............in the end its damn worth the money, besides not breaking stuff the car is quicker and faster....if I had stuck out the c4 deal this new build would have put the nail in the coffin for sure...............

I would have never got the money I had invested in the c4, so I changed the bell and stuck it in our smallblock car, sold off the c4 parts he had in his.

It seems that welding the shaft to the drum on bottom is next step. They have alot faster cars then mine with this mod. and stock welded up drum. One more time , i guess since it not going to cost anything except my time Yes, i dont no when to quit .

if you must run it, I ran a drum that had the holes silicon bronzed along with a vasco shaft.............ran low 9's and never broke a drum or shaft. I got the parts from Dynamic Racing Rransmissions.

Welding the drum and or shaft to the drum is gonna make it weak and brittle.

Never weld up the forward drum or weld the shaft to the drum! Brazing is the only way to go to make it stronger and don't forget to drill th lube hole after you brazed up the peanut holes. good luck with it.

I am glad to hear people agreeing on it. Welding it made it last a little longer. I am going to order a drum and another input shaft from dynamic. They use a silcone bronze fill for a $160 or so. One popular trannie shop i talked to goes really fast welding shaft to drum , but they still break i heard. It would take alot of trial and error to weld one i think to get a proper weld without over heating drum. Anyway Dynamic said he only had a few brozed ones break so thats good for me