Which intakes??

I have three different engines and a few different intakes laying around. I was hoping to find out which intake would work for each engine. I'm not opposed to buying something better either, but I'd like to try and get some use out of what I have. I have one SCJ Stealth intake, 2 Peformer RPM's and a cast iron CJ intake. All engines have headers

Engine 1 is a 501, 9.5:1 compression, aluminum SCJ heads. I have not chosen a cam yet, but the cam I do choose needs to pull 16-17" (planned on talking to Lem about this eventually). The engine is mainly going to be used for driving/towing, but I will use it for 'stock' pulling on occasion. This engine came with the SCJ Stealth intake. From what I read, this intake may not be the best choice for this engine?? Any other suggestions or go ahead and use it since I have it??

Engine 2 is a factory 429 (bottom end), mildly ported Dove's, Lunati VooDoo 61602, I planned on running a Peformer RPM on this engine. Same scenario as the 501, driver/occasional puller. Any other suggestions on intake??

Engine 3 is a stock 74 460, does have a Crane RV cam (I think around .494 lift??). Just trying to wake it up a little bit. Would the other Peformer RPM I have work on this engine or is that overkill??

Thanks for the input. My main concern is getting the right intake on the 501 because I'd like that to make the most torque/hp as possible, but I just thought I'd throw the rest out there.

Engine 1 = SCJ Port Stealth

Engine 2 = Performer RPM

Engine 3 = 1st choice Factory CJ or 2nd choice RPM

dfree383 wrote:Engine 1 = SCJ Port Stealth

Engine 2 = Performer RPM

Engine 3 = 1st choice Factory CJ or 2nd choice RPM

X2, The engine built the moat should get the best and vise versa. Plus the SCJ matches the heads so that's an obvious choice.

Like I said, I would be willing to buy a different intake for the 501, but if you guys think the Stealth will work fine, then I will just plan on using that.

Thanks for all of the input!!

Alright so I'm getting ready to swap on the cast iron CJ intake onto my driver. Might be a stupid question, but do I need to use a CJ intake gasket or a regular intake gasket?? I wasn't sure if I needed to buy the CJ intake gasket since the ports don't match anyway??

Gotta use the CJ gasket. STD gasket doesn't come close to covering the port on the intake.

The iron CJ intake on the driver is a good choice.

For the others, your thinking HAS to encompass EVERYTHING needed.

On the 501 ... use the "Performer RPM" ... The "Stealth" is good for making power with a fairly large camshaft and because of it's crossection is terrible for having high manifold vaccuum.
16 to 17 inches of manifold vaccuum will require a less than large camshaft and a high velocity, smaller runner. I'd even fill the floor of the SCJ heads to lessen the crossection.

On the 429, I'd find a regular "Performer" for that one.

On the iron CJ, does a guy want to run any type of carb spacer on it or just leave it as is??

If a guy ran the Performer RPM on the 501, does he want to have it port matched to the SCJ heads?? Like I said, this is the engine that I'm really focusing on because I want it to make the most power within reason.

Thanks for the info!!

THE WOOD wrote:On the iron CJ, does a guy want to run any type of carb spacer on it or just leave it as is??

If a guy ran the Performer RPM on the 501, does he want to have it port matched to the SCJ heads?? Like I said, this is the engine that I'm really focusing on because I want it to make the most power within reason.

Thanks for the info!!

Power within reason OR within the RULES.

If you port match the "Performer RPM" on the 501 you will decrease the velocity withing the manifold port exit where you need it to make your required vaccuum.

That vaccuum requirement voids most any normal high performance mods you would normally do.
PART throttle and a high idle have completely different performance scenarios.

If you could make the head ports smaller at the intake flange to match the "Performer RPM" you would be better off.

Well, I guess I should say the most power within the rules:). I bought the engine cheap (or cheap in my eyes) built the way that it is so it's not really like I had bought all of this stuff with the vacuum rule in mind. To be honest with you, I don't know if pulling it once or twice a year is worth worrying about pulling vacuum, especially since it's going to be driven/towed with the rest of the year. Although, it would be fun to pull in the 'stock' class and run hard. With the Performer RPM intake (non-ported) and a cam small enough to pull 16" of vacuum or so what is a realistic HP/Torq expectation on this engine?? How much loss, peformancewise, are we really talking by setting it up this way??

The "Stealth" along with a bigger cam ... 100 horsepower difference.

Now, it would have LESS torque below 4,000 RPM.

Alright, so I say screw pulling in the stock class (so screw worrying about vacuum). Keeping in mind that I still want to drive (cruise this thing around) and tow with it occasionally what cam would you recommend?? Right now, it has the Ford Motorsports roller cam, I believe it's .647 lift or something like that, either way too big for what I want to do with it so what cam would you recommend??

Also, I've read a few different things about the valve springs that come on the Super Cobra Jet heads. I've read that they are fine, but then I've also read that they fail once you get a few thousand miles on them?? Would it be worth putting a different set of springs on them while I'm swapping out the cam??

I, (along with others here), can get you a "custom" grind roller cam with "street" specs requiring tight lash which would be the best for it.
Now you would be better to port match that "Performer RPM" manifold 'cause the "TOWING" cam would still be to small for a Stealth to work well.

The valve springs would depend upon what final cam is used.

Sounds good!! I'll look you up when pulling season is over because that's when I plan on getting back on this project:)!!