Bruno's 87 Mustang build

You're rolling pretty good with the build

jbozzelle wrote:

bruno wrote:I really want to stick with everything Team Z, but i really dont care for the way you setup the settings for the bars, i pefer the "holes" rather than the detents ....

The detents allow fine tuning for the real high HP deals.  I really like these torque boxes...

https://www.jcrchassisworks.com/

I decided to go with Tim Lyons upper and lowers , he will also do my rear end. He certainly gave me the best service over the phone !

He did your rear end, but he serviced you over the phone??
Just playin with ya Bruno!!.....the project looks like its moving along nicely!!

bruno wrote:

jbozzelle wrote:

bruno wrote:I really want to stick with everything Team Z, but i really dont care for the way you setup the settings for the bars, i pefer the "holes" rather than the detents ....

The detents allow fine tuning for the real high HP deals.  I really like these torque boxes...

https://www.jcrchassisworks.com/

I decided to go with Tim Lyons upper and lowers , he will also do my rear end. He certainly gave me the best service over the phone !

Tim is the best of the best! Built some of the fastest cars in the country and he will do you right every time!

BBFTorino wrote:He did your rear end, but he serviced you over the phone??
Just playin with ya Bruno!!.....the project looks like its moving along nicely!!

haha ... yep pretty much on target.

Tim Lyon's up and lower tq boxes arrived , very nice pieces . Will have them mocked in this weekend.

Wow- those are nice!

Well this is some work, i have about 4 hours and still havent got these out yet ....lol

so that was some work, i tried to keep as much of the factory floor as possible. So my question is on the top bar of this upper tq box do i run the bars straight up to the upper main hoop , or do i do an x bar up to the main hoop or do i tie this in somewhere else ?

bruno wrote:...........So my question is on the top bar of this upper tq box do i run the bars straight up to the upper main hoop , or do i do an x bar up to the main hoop or do i tie this in somewhere else ?

Running straight bars (or X bars) from the upper TQ boxes (or upper TQ box cross bar) up to the top of the main hoop might make the main hoop it's self stronger, but not really do much for the upper TQ boxes. This is because under launch loading the rear housing pulls backward on the upper TQ boxes. So IMO that means any added upper TQ box bracing would generally need to attach/point to a frame and cage structure in a forward direction to fight the rearward pull/loading on the upper TQ boxes.

Thxs Dave for your input , are you suggesting 2 bars ? and would you rather tie those bars directly into the box or into the bar that ties the 2 boxes together ?

bruno wrote:............are you suggesting 2 bars ?...........

Yea, 2 bars each side to better triangulate everything.

bruno wrote:............and would you rather tie those bars directly into the box or into the bar that ties the 2 boxes together ?

Either way would probably be OK, which ever allows you to get a good/full weld on the weld joints. If you tie into the cross brace instead of directly to the upper TQ boxes you probably want to attach the bars as close to each TQ box as possible.

And don't forget the 2 short braces running from the rear wrap-around bars (mentioned earlier) down to the frame (or upper TQ boxes).

Thxs Dave for all the help

Might also want to be real careful if you Mig any added thick wall mild steel tube bracing (say .108" to .134" wall) directly to the upper TQ box's crossbar/crossmember if they made the crossbar out of thin wall 'moly.

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:Might also want to be real careful if you Mig any added thick wall mild steel tube bracing (say .108" to .134" wall) directly to the upper TQ box's crossbar/crossmember if they made the crossbar out of thin wall 'moly.

yes that whole piece is made from moly, he said it would be fine to mig to mild steel, anything i should do ??

Heat the thicker mild steel before you weld to thinner metal

bruno wrote:yes that whole piece is made from moly, he said it would be fine to mig to mild steel, anything i should do ??

If the 'moly tubing crossbar is like .083" wall, and if the added mild steel tube braces are also .083" wall, then don't worry about preheating anything before zipping it with the Mig. Just remember to lower the heat setting for .083 material, don't blast it with the machine cranked up for .134 wall stuff.

And even if the the 'moly tubing crossbar is .083" wall, and the added mild steel braces are thicker (like say .108 to .120" wall) you probably still don't have to worry about preheating if the thicker material is what gets fish-mouthed. That open edge of the fish-mouthed tubing should take on heat rather quickly even if it is a thicker wall.

Now if things were reversed & the crossbar was the thicker material and you were fish-mouthing thinner wall tube braces to it then that's when you might think about preheating the thicker material.

Looking good Nick!

Some guys also run bars straight up from the new torque box piece into the rear down bars. But that'll depend on you rear down bar width. Whatever you will be fine.

So we got the upper Tq boxes welded in , i also pulled back the factory floor to weld the top of the rails and seemed the floor back on the boxes, cut out the top of the floor so i have plenty of surface to tie the cage and the tq boxes together.

gonna need to retake that pic .....lol

got these mocked up started tearing out the factory lower tq boxes , i think im going to end up tying them into that bar.

Update!?

working on the lowers, got the pass side removed working on the drivers side ......

At this rate it won't be seen at the Bash 2019....

any updates