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GM Starter on Eliminator Block

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bigblock t-bird
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GM Starter on Eliminator Block Empty GM Starter on Eliminator Block

Post  taj362 August 25th 2016, 8:08 am

Okay, this one is a little in the weeds, bare with me.....

I plan on using a gm starter mounted on the drivers side of an eliminator block. The reason I want to do this is so that I can use a smaller diameter flywheel, and mount it inside a browell or trick titanium can. The stock type 184 tooth flywheel will not fit, as the diameter is too big. I understand that the flywheel and clutch will be a custom deal. I already spoke with RAM and they can put a bbf crank pattern in a 142 tooth flywheel for their full billet race clutches.

I am unsure of what to do about an oil pan, as most of the ford pans have a kick-out on the driver side that would most likely interfere with the drivers side starter. Any ideas on what pan may fit with a starter on the drivers side? this is going to be in your typical drag race prepped fox body.

Thanks,
Tom
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Post  Scott Foxwell August 25th 2016, 8:39 am

There shouldn't be any kick out on the driver side of a pan. Any of the good pan manufacturers should be able to build you what you need. How much pan are you wanting? Wet sump, dry sump? How about the Ford M-6675-DRS460, Canton 15-770 or Moroso 20620? All seem to be "decent" pans.

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Post  taj362 August 25th 2016, 8:48 am

Thanks, that makes me feel better about jumping into this.

The first iteration of this engine will probably be a wet-sump. As far as pan volume, I haven't got that far with my planning yet. The only piece of hardware I have for this so far is the transmission as that is what I am using behind a sbf that I am running now

Thanks,
Tom
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Post  cool40 August 25th 2016, 8:56 am

I always assumed the reason for moving the starter was to gain room for the full length kick out pans. I know some have done this and used the Chevy ring on a ford flywheel.
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Post  rmcomprandy August 25th 2016, 9:14 am

AS has been said ... most "kick-outs" up near the pan rail are on the passenger side, unless the engine is reverse rotation.

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Post  hienergy557 August 25th 2016, 10:15 pm

Full kick out down OUR drivers side(RH)
Standard size BBF flexplate and a 302-351C starter on a custom P/G adaptor plate.

GM Starter on Eliminator Block WP_000425_zpsc7ddde09
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Post  Scott Foxwell August 26th 2016, 10:00 am

hienergy557 wrote:Full kick out down OUR drivers side(RH)
Standard size BBF flexplate and a 302-351C starter on a custom P/G adaptor plate.

Yep. Some do have a full kick out even on driver side, just to increase the volume of the pan. Usually big, wet sump box pans. Not very typical, though.

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Post  bigblock t-bird August 26th 2016, 11:33 am

Get up with KFM, he made my mid plate for a BBC 168 running a http://boninfanteracing.com/boninfante_high_performance_clutch.html 10" clutch. Do you have your bell housing yet? Steve

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Post  Lem Evans August 26th 2016, 1:57 pm

Bolting the starter on the block certainly does allow a better pan design but, the prime motive for moving the starter to the A96/Roberts block was not having to screw with the starter when the clutch was serviced between rounds.

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Post  DaveMcLain August 26th 2016, 2:00 pm

Scott Foxwell wrote:
hienergy557 wrote:Full kick out down OUR drivers side(RH)
Standard size BBF flexplate and a 302-351C starter on a custom P/G adaptor plate.

Yep. Some do have a full kick out even on driver side, just to increase the volume of the pan. Usually big, wet sump box pans. Not very typical, though.

When he says "drivers" side he means the right side of the engine because they are right hand drive in Australia.

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Post  Lem Evans August 26th 2016, 2:07 pm

Scott Foxwell wrote:
hienergy557 wrote:Full kick out down OUR drivers side(RH)
Standard size BBF flexplate and a 302-351C starter on a custom P/G adaptor plate.

Yep. Some do have a full kick out even on driver side, just to increase the volume of the pan. Usually big, wet sump box pans. Not very typical, though.

I don't consider it to be a kick out but,  Charlie Gilbertson built me many pans that I call "driver's side flange in". Looks like this:



 GM Starter on Eliminator Block DSC02181

GM Starter on Eliminator Block Travel003Medium

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Post  hienergy557 August 26th 2016, 5:48 pm

DaveMcLain wrote:
Scott Foxwell wrote:
hienergy557 wrote:Full kick out down OUR drivers side(RH)
Standard size BBF flexplate and a 302-351C starter on a custom P/G adaptor plate.

Yep. Some do have a full kick out even on driver side, just to increase the volume of the pan. Usually big, wet sump box pans. Not very typical, though.

When he says "drivers" side he means the right side of the engine because they are right hand drive in Australia.  

Yep, RH drive.
I didn't want to have all the chevy fLIckheads telling me I need their parts to win. And I wouldn't mind a dollar for every race lost by a chevy starter.
We had Cleveland here from 1970 to 1984 so there's lots of them. I would have more chance of finding a 302-351 starter at the track than a BBF starter.
The pan has a full kick out down the RH side with a stepped bottom.
I'll try and post a picture from the RH side.

I can see what Lem is saying, If you had to pull the bellhousing to service the clutch you would want the starter mounted to the block.
Just a pity it would have to be a chevy one.
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Post  DanE August 26th 2016, 9:32 pm

Hey Hienergy;

I like how you think on this subject. Very Happy

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Post  jbozzelle August 27th 2016, 11:11 am

I'd get a mid plate made with the starter on the driver side.  Keith Fulp can certainly do it.

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Post  Scott Foxwell August 27th 2016, 11:56 am

DaveMcLain wrote:
Scott Foxwell wrote:
hienergy557 wrote:Full kick out down OUR drivers side(RH)
Standard size BBF flexplate and a 302-351C starter on a custom P/G adaptor plate.

Yep. Some do have a full kick out even on driver side, just to increase the volume of the pan. Usually big, wet sump box pans. Not very typical, though.

When he says "drivers" side he means the right side of the engine because they are right hand drive in Australia.  
LOL...OK, NOW I see. (smacks forehead)...

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