My 70 mustang fastback build

firts off i picked up a 70 fastback mustang , sold the foxbody . Issue is cars from new england and the roofs good the rest needs attention . Long story short to start over sucks but favorite mustang or muscle car was 69-70 fastback and lets face it everyone and there brother has a foxbody.

front frame rails need work
gonna replace rockers
front floors
part of firewall
1/4s were done at one point but i think i wanna redo

Car will get either 4 link or ladder bar setup and clear a 29.5x10.5w or 315 radial
gonna try to keep the outside of car looking original keep glass and steel besides the hood.

I keep going back and forth were to start , work the front frame rails , or do floor and rockers first or ?? lol

we got a 45x65 shop at my old mans its in with all the needed equipment to make happen , also we have some good fabricators in our corner as well .

Any tips greatly appreciated as well on what should be tackled first dont want the car to fold lol

i only paid 500$ for car to boot

Gonna take a large pile of cash and hundreds of hours in labor to get it to the track. Keep your eyes open for a partially completed car and save a ton of money and work. Good luck.

i got a pretty decent penny for my fox roller .....its a DMC built car . Money wont be the problem , i think the time is well just gonna take time.

most of the sheet metal from companys like cj pony parts are not insane for what they are.


we will see im gonna give it hell , bought a house over summer have no kids ..... wife is into the whole racing thing and enjoys it . We both have very good jobs to boot , if i could of found a 70 fatsback roller for reasonable i would

picking up a pair of dynacorn full quarters for 500 $ for the pair sat off craigslist

saving almost 50% off new and less shipping

have 2 new front fenders already

i have rear glass and all the taillights and quarter extensions as well .

Need some rockers , doors, and front frame rails for now

are you wanting to go back with "stock front frame rails??  
if not you should check out this


its what I put under my 69 & for under $2000.00  its a nice set up.

http://www.cachassisworks.com/p-1554-drag-race-a-arm-3x2-front-frame-clip-and-suspension-custom-fit.aspx

are you wanting to go back with "stock front frame rails??  
if not you should check out this


its what I put under my 69 & for under $2000.00  its a nice set up.

http://www.cachassisworks.com/p-1554-drag-race-a-arm-3x2-front-frame-clip-and-suspension-custom-fit.aspx

look very nice for the money ,

i have to look at some rules , i wanna run index type stuff and i gotta see what they consider good

i was going to fix front rails and do the Aje setup , but by the time i buy the aje setup and fix what i got this looks to be cut and dry

I wish they made that subframe set up where the wheels didnt tuck so far in, looks terrible imo........

Honestly youd be better off money and time wise to pick up Nicks old car Lee has for sale..........unless your just deadset on the old school mustang.

my fox that i sold

Dmc car ...was great and all it needed was motor and tranny put in .

Im just sick of seeing Foxbody275 and all these classes that are foxbody classes ....its just not appealing to me anymore . My old hatch back sb car was low 10 sec car stick car with vortechysi on it was fun but to me its just blah looking .

Most of the index rules are like this below

1. .500 Pro tree
2. Full bodied street cars only
3. Finished interiors
4. Lexan windows permitted
5. Mufflers mandatory (inserts are NOT mufflers)
6. DOT tires only max tire size of 30x13.5 or any size drag radial allowed. Slicks limited to a max size of 29x10.5 (non“W”)
7. Gasoline only (alcohol and nitro prohibited—E85 is permitted)
8. Stock frame and back half cars permitted (full round or square chassis cars prohibited)
9. Tubbed cars allowed
10. Pneumatic and electronic throttle stops prohibited
11. Delay devices prohibited (2 step and transbrakes allowed)
12. Any type power adder permitted
13. NHRA Pro ladder
14. Deep staging permitted but auto start will be on at ALL times
15. Full front bench seat or 2 bucket seats mandatory
16. Wheelie bars prohibited

richter69 wrote:I wish they made that subframe set up where the wheels didnt tuck so far in, looks terrible imo........

Honestly youd be better off money and time wise to pick up Nicks old car Lee has for sale..........unless your just deadset on the old school mustang.

Jon, so what your saying is you think my car looks terrible???? no Xmas present for you!!!! JK ...  

the rails can be any width you want to make them...

im not spoiled like others in the country with rust free everything

like some people probaly that are still mowing there lawns ect .....up here in New england we have rust and obviously on older cars . Thats what we have up here . Oh and we get shitty weather ha


we are goingto plug away at this car and take it from there , theres coupes from the 60s in a lot better shape for less money than i will have in this but to me a fastback is a lot better looking

i wanted the fastback , we are going to give it hell . I just sold a dmc chromoly fox , 35spline rear end with all baseline supension racecraft front end , strange brakes , weld alumastars ect .

For a pretty penny.

it was this or i was going to do a 1969 cougar

what engine/trans are you going to go with?

ok now that we got that out of the way, make the rails and tubs where it can hold a tank track layer down the road, if you make it where just the 315 will fit you'll be like ol Fabio and stuck with a medium size tire and have to redo the whole backhalf to fit a bigger tire.

yeah looking at 26 or 28 inch ladder bar frame kit , but i gotta do the front fram rails first .

im looking into the aje setup up front thats why im looking to do the the front rails over

richter69 wrote:ok now that we got that out of the way, make the rails and tubs where it can hold a tank track layer down the road, if you make it where just the 315 will fit you'll be like ol Fabio and stuck with a medium size tire and have to redo the whole backhalf to fit a bigger tire.

how much bigger you plan on going ? tire size ....you planning on hitting the OKC streets ha

5pointslow wrote:my fox that i sold

Dmc car ...was great and all it needed was motor and tranny put in .

Im just sick of seeing Foxbody275 and all these classes that are foxbody classes ....its just not appealing to me anymore . My old hatch back sb car was low 10 sec car stick car with vortechysi on it was fun but to me its just blah looking .

Most of the index rules are like this below

1. .500 Pro tree
2. Full bodied street cars only
3. Finished interiors
4. Lexan windows permitted
5. Mufflers mandatory (inserts are NOT mufflers)
6. DOT tires only max tire size of 30x13.5 or any size drag radial allowed. Slicks limited to a max size of 29x10.5 (non“W”)
7. Gasoline only (alcohol and nitro prohibited—E85 is permitted)
8. Stock frame and back half cars permitted (full round or square chassis cars prohibited)
9. Tubbed cars allowed
10. Pneumatic and electronic throttle stops prohibited
11. Delay devices prohibited (2 step and transbrakes allowed)
12. Any type power adder permitted
13. NHRA Pro ladder
14. Deep staging permitted but auto start will be on at ALL times
15. Full front bench seat or 2 bucket seats mandatory
16. Wheelie bars prohibited

Same rules as the index here at VMP in VA.

no streets lol.

our index rules are just must be doorcar, no delay box, no throttle stops..... pretty much it.

your rules look like a stock frame is the only way it'll work.   with these cars the big thing to do is get the spring towers gone.   

If the basic body/frame (unibody) structure is straight-square enough to establish exactly where the nose-to-tail centerline is, and where the desired ride height, wheelbase, & tread/track widths will be, then do the chassis work first. But if the body it's self is basicly fuuked in some major way (parts or sections crashed, crunched, twisted, etc,etc) then you have to iron them out first to better establish the centerline, wheelbase, & tread/track as a starting point for the chassis measurements.

If it's going to be mostly a heavy street use car then go with box tube frame and a 4-link with rubber and/or urethane "street" type rod-ends. If a mix of street & strip then either box tube or round tube frame rails (round tube frame really does need some extra cage/frame diagonal bracing) and a 4-link with conevntional all metal rod-ends, (that is if you don't mind the extra noise & harsher ride on the street). Ladder bars can sometimes be done on the street, but because they don't have hardly any body-roll you have to be carefull how/where you drive the car so you don't bend or break something when turning into/out of parking lots & driveways. If it's going to run 8.50's or slower then a conventional NHRA/IHRA cage is fine. No reason to build a faster than needed SFI legal cage/chassis, then bang the crap out of your head on the funny car cage all the time when driving on the street.

If it's a strip only deal (no street use) use round tubing for the frame (unless class rules call for box tubing) with either a ladder bar or 4-link, and use conventional rod-ends. The ladder bar might be the way to go on a strip only deal if you're shooting for one of the small tire classes since some of these classes don't allow 4-links on older cars that originally came with leafsprings. If a 4-link is allowed, & you want the extra adjustability they provide, go for it. If you want an easier/simpler setup, and don't want or need the extra adjustability, then go ladder bar. If it's not going to be faster than 8.50's then again a conventional NHRA/IHRA cage is fine, & no reason to build it SFI legal. Only reason to go SFI legal on an 8.50 & slower car is if it might be faster then 8.49 in the future, or for the increased resale value of the SFI cert.

the toe boards at bottom of firewall on passenger sid is gon and the passenger side frame rail needs to be replaced .

Thats the biggest issue first and formost i think .... i wanna get the body back for the most part than work on turning it into a race car .

im honestly thinking using aje front end , and doing a Sbf with spray when that time comes . I feel if im keeping the front fram rails the Sbf would prob fit the best and weight wise . we will see Engine is not even a concern right not even a little

mine is factory front rails and there is tons of room with the bbf

richter69 wrote:mine is factory front rails and there is tons of room with the bbf

I hope mine will end up like yours. 5pointslow,I don't know how quick you are going to move on the front suspension but I'll be posting pics, problems, etc. of this AJE conversion on mine. I plan on working on it tomorrow and Sunday. Mock up anyway.

70FB wrote:

richter69 wrote:mine is factory front rails and there is tons of room with the bbf

I hope mine will end up like yours. 5pointslow,I don't know how quick you are going to move on the front suspension but I'll be posting pics, problems, etc. of this AJE conversion on mine. I plan on working on it tomorrow and Sunday. Mock up anyway.

Oh i got plenty of work before i set my mind on suspension .....hell my old man thinks i should notch towers like yours and run a simple stock front end .. but hes old school

i hope theres not many problems with the AJE thats the kit im considering , only thing i heard with the AJE is the steep angles for bump steer to lower control arms

Im looking forward to seeing pics

The strut type deal like fabio runs works good.coilover struts get you the most room.