stock distributor vs msd distributor

i have a stock distributor with the bronze gear for a roller cam and welded the advance well i think that what it is need some heip the motor will start cold but as soon as i get in the final round of a bracket race the dam thing don't want start.got a mini starter,starter saver,timing on 28 for nos,the wiring is good,tried all kinds of battery. do i need to get a msd or someone know how to fix this one where it will start.

If the starter saver is not helping be sure all the connections, battery starter etc are ok......... make sure the rotor phase is correct.

JHON THE WAY TO FIX THIS IS BRING YA A** OVER TO MY HOUSE AND GET MINE PS AND 150

JHON I WENT AND LOOKED IT IS A MSD CANT YOU TAKE THAT WEIGHT KIT BACK?

might do that but just wondering if or how anyone knows how to fix a stock distributor for a poorboy.

Those factory dizzys are fine granted the shaft is not too sloppy. We staert our smallblock with 42* locked in, no starter saver, but the phase is d3ead on and the starting system up to par. I do have a starter saver on the BB, run 32* total (crank trigger) and it starts better than my explorer. It is a 16v deal, but even when it was 12v it was fine. I had more issues with it kicking back after I put the starter saver on, to the point it killed the starter drive. The ss retards the timing even when not in use, this threw the phase off to the point the spark was jumping to the prior post in the cap and causing the condition.

richter69 wrote:Those factory dizzys are fine granted the shaft is not too sloppy. We staert our smallblock with 42* locked in, no starter saver, but the phase is d3ead on and the starting system up to par. I do have a starter saver on the BB, run 32* total (crank trigger) and it starts better than my explorer. It is a 16v deal, but even when it was 12v it was fine. I had more issues with it kicking back after I put the starter saver on, to the point it killed the starter drive. The ss retards the timing even when not in use, this threw the phase off to the point the spark was jumping to the prior post in the cap and causing the condition.

thanks for the advice

The stock dizzy can be setup to work just as smooth as a MSD w/o locking it in. Just make sure it's in good shape and no slop. I'm not a big fan of welding it ,but thats just me.

bbf-falcon wrote:The stock dizzy can be setup to work just as smooth as a MSD w/o locking it in. Just make sure it's in good shape and no slop. I'm not a big fan of welding it ,but thats just me.

can you explain how without lockin it out are you calling the slop the thing you weld i don't like it nether

richter69 wrote:Those factory dizzys are fine granted the shaft is not too sloppy. We staert our smallblock with 42* locked in, no starter saver, but the phase is d3ead on and the starting system up to par. I do have a starter saver on the BB, run 32* total (crank trigger) and it starts better than my explorer. It is a 16v deal, but even when it was 12v it was fine. I had more issues with it kicking back after I put the starter saver on, to the point it killed the starter drive. The ss retards the timing even when not in use, this threw the phase off to the point the spark was jumping to the prior post in the cap and causing the condition.

good point Jon

I'm running a welded stock dizzy in my truck and had a lot of hot starting issues with it. I would have to back the timing off and it would fire right up. I got tired of dealing with it and bought an MSD Digital 6 plus box with the start retard feature. No problems now. What size cables are you using? Is the ground cable connected to the engine block/head? Where is the battery located?

richter69 wrote:If the starter saver is not helping be sure all the connections, battery starter etc are ok......... make sure the rotor phase is correct.

Jon makes a good point about the battery cable connections.

I had a hard start problem with a bracket racer 429 Fairmont, and we ran round robin' style and in the later rounds, the car was hard to start.
It ended up being a ground cable problem.
I double grounded the battery, frame, and engine and the problem went away.

the poor boy way is use a starter button to spin it with and then flip switch for the fire.mine's been worken for years that way cuz i'm a poor boy.

cool40 wrote:the poor boy way is use a starter button to spin it with and then flip switch for the fire.mine's been worken for years that way cuz i'm a poor boy.

What he said. If you don't already have one, put a switch in the primary coil circuit. Crank the engine with the coil OFF, then flip the coil switch while it's spinning over. It's not just a poorboy method.......We didn't always have electronic start retards available.

sounds like you crank retard (for timing) is not working,

just to prove a point in the 1990s i ran a duraspark dist for 10 passes,and then installed a billet msd ran 10 passes, same et ,same avg, 9.83

83-88T-Bird Guy wrote:

richter69 wrote:If the starter saver is not helping be sure all the connections, battery starter etc are ok......... make sure the rotor phase is correct.

Jon makes a good point about the battery cable connections.

I had a hard start problem with a bracket racer 429 Fairmont, and we ran round robin' style and in the later rounds, the car was hard to start.
It ended up being a ground cable problem.
I double grounded the battery, frame, and engine and the problem went away.

I had to do the same thing. Made a world of difference.

cool40 wrote:the poor boy way is use a starter button to spin it with and then flip switch for the fire.mine's been worken for years that way cuz i'm a poor boy.

This works fine unless you have a lot of cranking compression like I do. 250psi+. I tried this with mine, and the only way I could make it turn over was to retard the timing, and it was really exagerated when the engine was up to operating temp.

i took dizzy out the gear in the center is eating the pickup to death you can push the pickup over and it will not hit also put the 8414 msd kit on top but the spacer still moves around the base stays still while the spacer and cap is real moveable has anyone had this problem and if so can please help thanks

bigjohn2007 wrote:i took dizzy out the gear in the center is eating the pickup to death you can push the pickup over and it will not hit also put the 8414 msd kit on top but the spacer still moves around the base stays still while the spacer and cap is real moveable has anyone had this problem and if so can please help thanks

Sounds like you have killed the top bearing in the MSD. Seriously, it's time to send the entire distrbutor back to MSD for a rebuild.

Hope this helps,
Charlie

c.evans wrote:

bigjohn2007 wrote:i took dizzy out the gear in the center is eating the pickup to death you can push the pickup over and it will not hit also put the 8414 msd kit on top but the spacer still moves around the base stays still while the spacer and cap is real moveable has anyone had this problem and if so can please help thanks

Sounds like you have killed the top bearing in the MSD. Seriously, it's time to send the entire distrbutor back to MSD for a rebuild.

Hope this helps,
Charlie

X2 on what Charlie said above, I had a similar problem about 3 weeks ago with my 351W MSD dizzy, go to MSDs website and get an RMA approval. Then, send it back and they fix it. Mine cost me $110, and I got a brand new dizzy with my base, cap and rotor put back on it, and that was adding a steel dizzy gear for the roller cam. MSD did me right, I'm sure you will be happy too.

cool40 wrote:the poor boy way is use a starter button to spin it with and then flip switch for the fire.mine's been worken for years that way cuz i'm a poor boy.

^^ Works perfect

What I do also!