what main bearing

Ok had a thrust bearing go bad and cause some damage. Damage is now fixed and I need to decide on a bearing.



I had King HP bearings in there.



Looking at the Clevite77's



http://www.jegs.com/i/Clevite/695/MS1039V10/10002/-1?parentProductId=



or



http://www.jegs.com/i/Clevite/695/MS1039P10/10002/-1



which on is best or is there a more recommended bearing



Frank

Which block are you using and why did your thrust bearing go bad? 4 bolt main caps?

Charlie

dfree383 wrote:King bearings are fine, what was your clearance last time?

I didn't build the first short block, so I do not know.

c.evans wrote:Which block are you using and why did your thrust bearing go bad? 4 bolt main caps?

Charlie

Stock block, 2 bolt mains, I do not know why, but had to have the crank welded up in the thrust face and machined. all back to stock tolerance, already .010 on mains and rods

still haven't sold the trans, unless it sells the t56 stays.

but in regards to the two bearings I posted,, which would be the preferred way to go?

I use what ever Lem can get me when I need it. haven't much difference in the ACL,King,or Clevite. All are good. Make sure you have plenty clearance in thrust AND Converter. Chances are that something wasn't right.

bbf-falcon wrote:I use what ever Lem can get me when I need it. haven't much difference in the ACL,King,or Clevite. All are good. Make sure you have plenty clearance in thrust AND Converter. Chances are that something wasn't right.

What he said!

Frank is this a special crank? is it stock or aftermarket ? if it is stock why did you pay to have it reaired would it not have been cheaper to chunk it and have another balanced to put in it's place?

Thrust usually goes out for some reason, to much pressure on the throw out bearings, or load on the trans input pushing the thrust forward in the block, another words the pilot bearing was to thick and hit the pilot shoulder in front of the spline on your input shaft?

It matter not now but you need to find the culprit and not just redo it before you reassemble it and not have the problem fixed.

the pilot beaing or bushing should not have any face wear on it if it does then your trans is in to far and making the crank push forward and killing your thrust.


I know this is not a specific bearing number But there is no Specific Number


Have a nice day

Yeah, something is def not right, I know I had major issues with the pilot bearing and such, So I am pretty positive that holds some of the problem.

I am going to assemble the trans and block/crank out of the car on the bench before I do final assembly to make sure stuff is perfect this time.

So is the face of the pilot bearing supposed to be flush with the end of the crank? I know the one I had was not flush. I am not sure any of the end play spec when the short block was done. But I will know this time as I am putting everything together myself and will keep a record of all the specs and clearances.

oh forgot to add.

Nothing special about the crank, was a stock crank, all the other surfaces were still perfect, and between the cost of a new crank and getting cut and rebalanced, the fix was much much more manageable.

frank check you PMs

Frank when you do the bench test see if you can do it with the oil pan off and check the the end play and know what up have and if the polit is pushing it to far farward.Frank I run passager car bearing in mine I have run King and clevit bearing with good resultes

the Coug wrote:frank check you PMs

You da'man!

Frank just trying to help, you know how to get ahold of me if you need......if you have any more questions just ask....