new project!

i got a new idea.i'm well past the safety of what i have now so i run up on this.its a wrecked 10.5 car but it can be saved! i already cut the bad part off.now i can put a new strut clip on it and be good to go. the rear housing took a good beating too,any hope for this axle tube?

wow thats tweaked quit a bit

bruno wrote:wow thats tweaked quit a bit

i guess the housing is done

cool40 wrote:

bruno wrote:wow thats tweaked quit a bit

i guess the housing is done

get the BFH out......

Heck no it will buff out............ get busy

IDT-572 wrote:Heck no it will buff out............ get busy

get your arse over here and help me buff i may loose some teeth but i'm gona give the housing a try!

i still have all my teeth and the housing is fixed! a 20ton jack,a cut or two,and some heat will fix anything.i cant say as much for the axle it has about .020 run out at the flange so i'll get a new set.

cool40 wrote:i got a new idea.i'm well past the safety of what i have now so i run up on this.its a wrecked 10.5 car but it can be saved! i already cut the bad part off.now i can put a new strut clip on it and be good to go. the rear housing took a good beating too,any hope for this axle tube?

New home for the 605 what kind of skin you pitting around it

i'm thinking i'll keep the body off my mustang.i realy dont know for sure i'd sell the black car rolling or just a chassis or whatever i guess.i can use a lot off the other car but i realy hate to part it out.it works very good @ 5.40's but the ladder bar setup is just hard to deal with now with more power.i want to be as safe as i can be, cuz i have two girls to take care of.

cool40 wrote:i'm thinking i'll keep the body off my mustang.i realy dont know for sure i'd sell the black car rolling or just a chassis or whatever i guess.i can use a lot off the other car but i realy hate to part it out.it works very good @ 5.40's but the ladder bar setup is just hard to deal with now with more power.i want to be as safe as i can be, cuz i have two girls to take care of.

I hear you Lee I also have 2 girls I think you will like the 4 link a whole lot better than the ladder bar.I agree we can never make these ride safe enough I know when I built the ranger I added more bars than I needed just to make sure.

my ladder bars work just fine........ must be the weight difference

richter69 wrote:my ladder bars work just fine........ must be the weight difference

all that weight you put on the nose.

6.5#s kept in reasonable ...........

richter69 wrote:6.5#s kept in reasonable ...........

when i went to get this thing it had all kinds of weight bars on it.i think it had to weigh 3200#for 10.5 with his TT BBC.

sounds about right, better to make it light and hang weight where you need it......

any ideas on what kind'a ARB these mounts are for?

I think either Bickel or RJ will fit that.

whatbumper wrote:I think either Bickel or RJ will fit that.

thanks,i was hoping RJ would.i think they had it under the frame rail last,they cut it off before i bought it tho. i got the old floorpan off and waiting for the s&w frontend.

A lot of the bolt-in style anti-rolls (both "bearing block" & "bushing" styles) use a similar looking mount. The ART, McAmis, & Mark Williams bolt-in units also use a similar looking mount. It will be easy enough to replace the old brackets if they don't fit whatever brand bolt-on anti-roll you might end up with.

i guess any ARB i get will come with all the brackets so at worst i'll change them. should i "need" a heavy ARB for a 2400#car?

http://bearsperformance.com/usa/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=21&products_id=266

These look nice.

that looks like a good deal and it has bearings too,thanks.

4-link design, 4-link width spacing, I/C height/length, & torque/power numbers all play a part in how much body roll might happen. Some fast cars do OK with the dirt cheap mild steel 1" solid torsion bar units, some need the monster P/M units, and some need something in the middle (like the one in the link).

But I would avoid using the cheap mild steel units with the solid 1" bar just because they have a greater chance of developing loose/slack arms over time.

we usually use heavier bars on heavier high horsepower cars but with this car being so light and not being a twin turbo monster I feel that this style would be a good unit, just as Dave said. We started purchasing some items from Bear's Performance a while back due to their prices being a little cheaper than some of the others and if you notice it is the same exact stuff one of the other companies sells for at a marked up price.

Good luck with your build.

whatbumper wrote:we usually use heavier bars on heavier high horsepower cars but with this car being so light and not being a twin turbo monster I feel that this style would be a good unit, just as Dave said. We started purchasing some items from Bear's Performance a while back due to their prices being a little cheaper than some of the others and if you notice it is the same exact stuff one of the other companies sells for at a marked up price.

Good luck with your build.

i think i'm gona give them a try,thanks for the link.