D3ve heads

Northwest outlaw September 27th 2009, 3:00 pm

What is the biggest vavle are you guy putting in them?
What are you guys paying the have them mach... for screw in studs?
What vavles are you guys using Part numbers? are you guys using the Ford motorsports vavles?

Thank you guys Jason.

rmcomprandy September 27th 2009, 3:40 pm

Any diameter valve combination which equals 4" intake and exhaust. If your camshaft is not large enough on overlap to have "valve to valve" problems, you can go slightly larger.
The D3VE valves are shorter than the FRPP valves.

Northwest outlaw September 27th 2009, 4:05 pm

Thank for the input. What do most of you guys run for vavles Milodon,SI,Manley,

Northwest outlaw September 27th 2009, 4:42 pm

ok so im racking the brain what would you guys go?
2.19 x 1.8
2.25 x 1.71
i know the ehaust is the lazy side on the head so im looking at helping it more then the intake side as this is a turbo build Thanks Jason.

72mav September 27th 2009, 7:43 pm

Id stick with the Cj sizes Jason.
Go with whats known to work, especially on the exhausts, hence their problems/etc.

If you go TOO big, it may hurt velocity, but thats a question for the porting Gurus....

schmitty September 27th 2009, 9:03 pm

rmcomprandy sells the Harland Sharpe conversion rockers for the D3 heads that would be a more economical choice than machining for screw in studs, if you don't already have a set of good rockers to use. Cool

Northwest outlaw September 27th 2009, 9:13 pm

dont they only like about .550 lift and any more then that you need 7/16 rockers done?

schmitty September 27th 2009, 9:51 pm

The H/S stuff that Randy sells are capable of anything a regular roller rocker can do.

longroofracer September 27th 2009, 10:59 pm

schmitty wrote:rmcomprandy sells the Harland Sharpe conversion rockers for the D3 heads that would be a more economical choice than machining for screw in studs, if you don't already have a set of good rockers to use.

Yes, he doesn't say much to directly sway you into coughing up the money for them, but they are very nice looking, and you gotta love something that actually bolts on these days. If I weren't working towards a Powerstroke, I would buy a set for my 460 in my F250. For you Cleveland guys... they work also Wink

http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123874&highlight=bolt+down+rockers

Northwest outlaw September 27th 2009, 11:15 pm

thank you for the info on that. but i think im just going to mill them down and drill and tap them my self and us studs.

schmitty September 27th 2009, 11:26 pm

By the time you mill/drill/tap, buy the studs and guideplates and rockers, you'll be in a lot deeper than the cost of the H/S rockers. I think they are only about $100 more than a good set of roller rockers, and that isn't going to buy the guideplates and a good set of studs, and if you grenade a head they can be bolted right on to another replacement head. Cool

IDIeselman September 28th 2009, 8:40 am

longroofracer wrote:
schmitty wrote:rmcomprandy sells the Harland Sharpe conversion rockers for the D3 heads that would be a more economical choice than machining for screw in studs, if you don't already have a set of good rockers to use.

Yes, he doesn't say much to directly sway you into coughing up the money for them, but they are very nice looking, and you gotta love something that actually bolts on these days. If I weren't working towards a Powerstroke, I would buy a set for my 460 in my F250. For you Cleveland guys... they work also

http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123874&highlight=bolt+down+rockers

Randy may not be much of a salesman but, He is One of the best builders on the board. I have been running a set of his bolt down rockers with a .619 lift cam and there is no problems at all. Schmitty is correct when saying they are capable of anything a regular roller rocker can do. Northwest outlaw, The .550 lift is the general rule for the factory bolt down rockers. I'm not trying to sell you a set but Do Yourself a favor and just look into them as another option and you may be $$$ ahead. Wink

rmcomprandy September 28th 2009, 10:12 am

Guys, the reason I don't try to push them, (unless I build the engine), is that they are like a Jesel set-up but, with one hold-down bolt instead of two and like a Jesel, the pushrod length has to be close to right-on.
Most people who try to be their own engine builder just can't grasp this because they don't seem to get this right.

fordman460 September 28th 2009, 1:10 pm

What happened to the Wolverine version? I have not actually saw them, but I think they had an adjustable pushrod seat. I have an old book with a part# and description. Comp makes them for smallblocks. Why not bigblocks too? I think IDIeselman was kidding about Randy's salesmanship. Not wanting customers to get into trouble, is a good thing in my book!

rmcomprandy September 28th 2009, 9:18 pm

I used to use the Wolverine "Blue Racer" version of these rocker arms all the time however, when Crane acquired them they dropped that part afterward; along with most the older "factory" performance camshafts they had in the Wolverine listings.
That IS the reason I worked with Harland Sharp to develope these rockers; to fill that void in the marketplace because I use that type rocker a lot in the builds I do. I prefer to use solid lifters. As Joe Sherman says, "in a racing type engine, hydraulics are for girls".
I think I still have half a set of those "Blue Racer" rockers.

fordman460 September 28th 2009, 9:46 pm

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Conversion rockers for the D3 heads.

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Thanks Randy.

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