I need ideas for my foxbody manual brakes

I have a 8.8 with new disc brakes just put new pads on my stock fronts my pedal is all the way at the top but its like standing on a brick hard as it can be but wont stop the car over 25 mph its got all new lines to the front and rear runs thru a block up front to split the lines from left to right but it just dont have no stopping power i am stumped i am thinking its the master cyl any ideas.

What brakes? Did you have the rotors cut? What pads? Who's kit did you use to convert to manual brakes?

How far does the pedal go down when you push ?

If used a power brake pedal with manual brakes, you might not have enough leverage to create the correct pressure. The power brake pedal can be modified using instructions on the Aerospace Brakes web page, or you could buy a new pedal from maximum motorsports. I did my 12 years ago and at that time Baer Brakes sold a kit and if you sent them the stock pedal they would modify it for use with a manual master cylinder for a fee.
Gary

I dont know who done the conversion i got the car as a project and its almost ready i just cut the front rotors yesterday and put the new pads on it when i did the first pump or two on the pedal the brake pedal moved 1 1/2 " then got rock hard i mean right to the top i check everything in the rear braks they are like new with all new lines it looks as though its got a older master cylinder on it which i may just replace today and i will check the brake pedal while i am at it i have another that came with the car its just one of those unexpected things that i cannot figure out as all the parts looked good thanks for the response's guys

parking brake on? rears adjusted too tight. the pedal leverage is easy and a must to change.

another issue can be pads, so of them are just to hard to get seated IMO.

must use man pedal for man brakes, ratio is all wrong with power pedal, it will never be right

BOSS 429 wrote:must use man pedal for man brakes, ratio is all wrong with power pedal, it will never be right

I modified mine and they work great.

well ya, just can not be used in stock form, need to move pivot point up for better ratio

bigdaddy198 wrote:I dont know who done the conversion i got the car as a project and its almost ready i just cut the front rotors yesterday and put the new pads on it when i did the first pump or two on the pedal the brake pedal moved 1 1/2 " then got rock hard i mean right to the top i check everything in the rear braks they are like new with all new lines it looks as though its got a older master cylinder on it which i may just replace today and i will check the brake pedal while i am at it i have another that came with the car its just one of those unexpected things that i cannot figure out as all the parts looked good thanks for the response's guys

if you just cut the rotors and replaced the pads, it is normal to have to pump up your brakes first off then they should be fine.

stanggt wrote:

bigdaddy198 wrote:I dont know who done the conversion i got the car as a project and its almost ready i just cut the front rotors yesterday and put the new pads on it when i did the first pump or two on the pedal the brake pedal moved 1 1/2 " then got rock hard i mean right to the top i check everything in the rear braks they are like new with all new lines it looks as though its got a older master cylinder on it which i may just replace today and i will check the brake pedal while i am at it i have another that came with the car its just one of those unexpected things that i cannot figure out as all the parts looked good thanks for the response's guys

if you just cut the rotors and replaced the pads, it is normal to have to pump up your brakes first off then they should be fine.

If you have to pump the brakes 1 or 2 times before the pedal firms up, this is almost always a MC bore-sizing issue. Typically it isn't big enough. At minimum it should be 15/16" for the typical factory front disc, turbocoupe or SVO rear disc combo. With better brakes (bigger calipers) you need to use a MC with an 1 1/8" bore size. The strange piece as well as the race craft piece (they are the same) are this size.

I'm not sure that this was the question you were asking or not....

anytime u cut the rotors and compress the caliper piston to replace pads with new, you have to pump the brakes to get the cylinder extended back out for the pad to reach the rotor and then it will be fine.Seems after reading what you posted, thi is what you experienced. Is everything good now or do you have to pump brakes everytime you apply them?

Well i replaced the master cylinder bled all the brakes in proper sequence rr/lr/rf/lf bam i got a full pedal first pump brake were still not grabbing even when you hit them hard i went for a ride open headers just to go thru all the gears make sure tranny was tight plus i was wanting to see if riding the brakes a little would kind of seat in the pads almost had a major messup i hit third gear felt good car runs awsome hit the brakes bam right to the floor no brakes and i am doing like 45 i heard something fall off my daughter seen it and goes down the street to get it one of my front pads came out and caliper blew the piston out come to find out i was solt the wrong pads i was sold mkd310's when i needed mkd152's wow orielly's messed up on that one but they are covering the 1 caliper, new pads , and 1 rotor, i ordered both new rotor's 2 new calipers, and pads this could have been real bad if it happened at the track wow

Glad you figured out the problem but......ALWAYS fix your brake problems before you go beat on it. Coulda been pretty bad. Just sayin...