Stock main caps ?

Will stock 429/460 main caps hold up to 1000 hp?

More than likely the 1st thing that will happen with 2 bolt block & large Hp......it'll crack from one of the main bolt holes to the cam tunnel.

Ok ... So is there anything that will help ? My block is a 68 , do main girdles work ? I wanna make between 600/700 hp and add a 200 shot on top of that

4 bolt caps and a half fill are the most effective mod's, short of going to a good aftermarket block. The typical commercialy avaliable girdles are a waste of time and money. Main Support Straps do help some, the kind that require machining to the caps.

Most effective fix is to just get a good block to start with, A460 or Eliminator.

dfree383 wrote:Most effective fix is to just get a good block to start with, A460 or Eliminator.

By the time you have the caps installed, with the cost of the caps and all machine done that will need to be done, the cost of an after market block is not that bad. Also, with the block you have now you are limited to probably only a 4.440 max bore, with an after market you would have room to grow, have better oiling, and 18 bolt option to add 18 bolt heads later.

jason wrote:Ok ... So is there anything that will help ? My block is a 68 , do main girdles work ? I wanna make between 600/700 hp and add a 200 shot on top of that

for that power level ,if your tune is good/right it will live a long time. it will probaly have some cap walk around 800hp level

x2 for the aftermarket block
my old 501 with a stock block 2 bolt with studs
had cap walk and i was around 600hp
ran it around 7k

Lem Evans wrote:More than likely the 1st thing that will happen with 2 bolt block & large Hp......it'll crack from one of the main bolt holes to the cam tunnel.

Yep,#2 will most times be the culprit
Keeping the rpm's low will prolong the life alot.

Yep.....#2 is the #1 suspect.

Thanks guys I'd love to get another a-460 but it's not in the budget so I have to use my factory block .

It will last for awhile or longer if the tune is sane Like Rich has said.

The 600-700 N/A is no problem they last for a realy long time at that level, the NO2 of 200-300 make it alot harder on them. But it will be walking the caps and your greatly increasing your chances it will break.

Well that makes it easier , I guess I won't spray it then , it's gonna be a pump gas streeter for the most part .

Coast high performance sells a 521 stroker 4340 crank forged I beam rods forged pistons tool steel wrist pins rings and bearings for about $2400 . Are they any good? Who makes the crank and rods they sell ?

jason wrote:Coast high performance sells a 521 stroker 4340 crank forged I beam rods forged pistons tool steel wrist pins rings and bearings for about $2400 . Are they any good? Who makes the crank and rods they sell ?

There are some very good vendors on here that sell stroker kits and also have excellent customer service

Call Adney Brown at Performance Crankshaft.

When I get closer to the engine build I'll give him a call . Ive gotta put ladder bars , a cage and interior in it .

jason wrote: I wanna make between 600/700 hp and add a 200 shot on top of that

If all you want to run is 600-700 hp then you ought to be just fine with the passenger car block. We have built a good number of stroker engines at that hp, 9.8:1 up to 13:1, street to racing to marine applications, and assuming a good tune is maintained they can run for a very long time without issue. Use the OEM main bolts; do not use aftermarket main studs as you will more likely experience cap walking with the studs.

The absolute need for an aftermarket block at just 700 hp is simply not true.

Paul

Paul Kane wrote:

jason wrote: I wanna make between 600/700 hp and add a 200 shot on top of that

If all you want to run is 600-700 hp then you ought to be just fine with the passenger car block. We have built a good number of stroker engines at that hp, 9.8:1 up to 13:1, street to racing to marine applications, and assuming a good tune is maintained they can run for a very long time without issue. Use the OEM main bolts; do not use aftermarket main studs as you will more likely experience cap walking with the studs.

The absolute need for an aftermarket block at just 700 hp is simply not true.

Paul

But a 1000..... Its a little different story.

At 1000hp like the op stated, damn sure go for the aftermarket block, beside better mains you get thicker cyl walls, better oiling, the crank will be happier etc. Its a no brainer.

2-bolt, filled block , girdle ......about 750 plus 150 of nitrous

I would have never thought stock bolt are less likely to walk than studs , why is that ? And do I get new bolts or use the originals ?

bruno wrote:2-bolt, filled block , girdle ......about 750 plus 150 of nitrous

How many passes ? The bearings look good !

"2-bolt, filled block , girdle ......about 750 plus 150 of nitrous"......Like has been said....'how many passes?'
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I would not call be bearing "good" although it's not in trouble yet. The front part of the bearing shows a good deal of wear and the rear about none. Taper in the block's housing bore or taper at the rod journal....flexing of the block or crankshaft.

^^Either that or someone got a little happy with the silicone, causing the cap to sit cockeyed.