Dave's New Dream........

Any Pointers on buying or building a Dragster? I've got the Itch for something new and fast........ I've also thought about an Altered....... Only one that will certify this time...

if i had the money i would buy Mike's ...... and i would think that would be a good chassis for you dave to r and d all your engines in

Yeah, What Bruno Said !!!

Did I mention the "after sale help and advice" ??

I'm stewing on it, Tell me the difference between a swing arm and a hard tail? Applications? Pros / cons?

Well.... Being sorta bias on the Hardtail side...

Hardtails usually weigh less ( 70 -80 lbs), less moving parts, cheaper to buy used...
4 links /swingarms better on bumpy tracks, more adjustments for traction issues, higher re-sale value.

Those are just off the top of the head..Please..anyone else..please chime in...

Bruno buy it for me and Ill let you drive it

Which type would be the better choice for someone like me who hasn't gone 7's? I have enough motor to push a 2000# car to 7.50-7.60 in the 1/4 and with a few additional mods faster...........

front engine..............slingshot..........

I'd go hardtail first to get used to the feel. You can always rear half the hard tail if you wish later down the road...

I think Mike's rail is a steal. If I had the cash I'd buy it...

jbozzelle wrote:I'd go hardtail first to get used to the feel. You can always rear half the hard tail if you wish later down the road...

I think Mike's rail is a steal. If I had the cash I'd buy it...

I agree, it's priced right and better yet, it's set up for the BBF. Most used dragsters are set up for the bowtie. Not a big deal, but a lot less work.

thats what i dont understand ....Mikey why are you giving this thing away

Well Gentlemen, it's like this...
2 racecars are too much work for 1 man to handle. Plan is to get 1 car , that both of us acn drive. Dee can't reach everything she needs to in my car . Most of the tracks around here are SHORT 1/8 mile tracks, where stopping is a concern. We all know a 4-link car is better under hard braking. So..sell 2 cars to get 1.
Since 4 link cars came out, the resale on hardtails dropped. My car also has no fuel pump ( was running injection pump) or shifter ( the one for the Lenco won't work w/Glide). So I was trying to price accordingly.

Make sense now ??

Also for sale... 99 SunCoast, could be purchased turnkey........

dfree383 wrote:Which type would be the better choice for someone like me who hasn't gone 7's? I have enough motor to push a 2000# car to 7.50-7.60 in the 1/4 and with a few additional mods faster...........

Dave, ready to run, the car weighed 1910 w/ my big azz... Car has gone a best of 4.77 @ 145 and 7.51 @ 179.
That's with my 555 A head deal, so w/ your motor , it's the same neighborhodd..

I had never been in the 7's before I got this car, so which is better is something I can't answer. All depends on the person. 4 link cars are more "forgiving" under hard braking..

Another Dumb Question, How do Dragsters Age? Meaning what do you look for when buying an older chassis? Do they Sag? Out of Square? Cracks? What type of wear will you see on them? How do you tell a good one from a bad one?

Also, What is the trpical cost for Updates? Just a range

I've had a hardtail (slipjoint) that I ran for 5 years and now I have the swingarm. I MUCH PREFER the swing arm just for the braking. A hardtail car will bounce and can be hard to stop on a short track. With the suspension I can stand on brakes just like a door car. No worry about the bounce. A suspension will add from 10" to 18" to length, so keep that in mind for trailer requirements. My 28' trailer has cabinets in the nose and when I pull my 240" wheelbase car in, there is about 3' of usable space left behind it.

Dave, on a hardtail car you want to carefully check the uprights in front of the footbox for cracks. From your feet to just behind the front wheels. Also look at the tabs where the mid engine plate is bolted. The tabs can be replaced pretty easily, but I would be careful with a car that has had the uprights welded and offer accordingly. They WILL crack again. Something else to keep in mind is a chromed cage. Chrome is outlawed on all 03 and later cars, but is grandfathered in on older cars, but only down to 7.50 ET. No chrome rollcage allowed at all for the Advanced ET cert of 7.49 and faster.

Updates can vary from few hundred for adding something like helmet bars to an older car so it will certify to adding a rear suspension. Turning a hardtail into a suspended car is around 4500-5K.

That's another thing I need to consider is a trailer, my current one isn't low enough for a dragster.....

dfree383 wrote:That's another thing I need to consider is a trailer, my current one isn't low enough for a dragster.....

The solution for dragster loading:
http://www.buffaloespeedenterprises.com/320086.html

Notice the adjustable legs on the ramp and on the trailer door. They are adjustable for diffeent trailer heights.

I have a set that I bought used for 1/2 price of new. These are the ticket. I jack the nose of the trailer just a bit without unhooking it from the truck, unfold the ramps, and drive straight in. A friend of mine built a set that are very similar (but changed enough to avoid any patent problems) He used aluminum scaffolding that he cut to length to make the main parts of the ramps.

Those are cool, I guessing they are a bolt on to the door and stay in place? That will definetly make one problem cheaper.

dfree383 wrote:Those are cool, I guessing they are a bolt on to the door and stay in place? That will definetly make one problem cheaper.

The ramps bolt to the door, but you can slide them from side to side to adjust for a dragster, 4 wheeler, etc. Two sections of 1" pipe are bolted to the door (you can see them in the pic) the ramps slide back/forth and pivot on them. If you need to remove them for some reason it woudl take less than 5 minutes.

Dave,

David about covered alot of the bases on checking out an older chassis. I can guarantee you that my car has none of these issues. Feel welcome to come check it out, I got nothing to hide.
As for the Solid vs 4 link deal... Yup 4 link has the advantage under hard braking on a short track. It can be done on a solid car, as I have been 4.80 @ Windy Hollow and stopped without the chute.But, I also learned how to drive (when I got my license) on a short ,bumpy track. So it all depends on where you will be running the car... On a short, bumpy track or a smooth one with lots of shutdown.

I Appriciate the education, Maybe I should take the Frank Hawley or similar school before jumping in? any thoughts on that?

Dave,

As I and some other can attest, It will be some of the best money you spend. Dee, my Dad and I have all been to Hawley's plus the young kid that use to crew for me. You will learn alot about racing plus get insight to the mental side of racing.

If you can, DO IT !! you won't regret it..

I think I'm gping take the class before I but a car, any location better that others?

Just got back from the jeg's quick 32 at Chandler, man some fast cars, and nice, I'm definetly getting a dragster now........

Whatcha gonna do with the yellow bullet?