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Valve spring cup

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Post  cool40 March 14th 2015, 10:43 am

What would cause a valve spring cup to break in half? I just pulled the number one springs off for height checking and discovered the intake spring cup in two pieces. The spring psi is down but not sure if that would cause it. confused the exhaust has a .015 shim under it and both look fine. Ideas?
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Post  Lem Evans March 14th 2015, 11:58 am

Did it have a salvage title? Razz

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Post  cool40 March 14th 2015, 12:21 pm

Lem Evans wrote:Did it have a salvage title? Razz
rebuilt....... Wink
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Post  dfree383 March 14th 2015, 1:50 pm

Sounds like a root beer float to me.....
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Post  cool40 March 14th 2015, 5:33 pm

dfree383 wrote:Sounds like a root beer float to me.....
I suspect a couple of wise guys Suspect
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Post  Lem Evans March 14th 2015, 5:38 pm

Spring float.

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Post  cool40 March 14th 2015, 6:37 pm

Lem Evans wrote:Spring float.
you have a spring in mind? Question
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Post  Lem Evans March 14th 2015, 6:43 pm

What is your rocker ratio?

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Post  cool40 March 14th 2015, 7:11 pm

Lem Evans wrote:What is your rocker ratio?
1.75 and .850 lift without the lash. Im thinking the springs dropping psi did the damage. Intake valve is big..... Suspect Valve spring cup 20150314_170113. Valve spring cup 20150314_170659
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Post  dfree383 March 14th 2015, 8:14 pm

What's the valve tip and rocker roller tip look like?
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Post  Lem Evans March 14th 2015, 8:23 pm

You have a PAC 1228 spring ?

If so, run it closer to coil bind.

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Post  cool40 March 14th 2015, 8:46 pm

dfree383 wrote:What's the valve tip and rocker roller tip look like?
round and shiny. ... Laughing rockers look new.I thought the valves had a few different marks on them like they were turning but not really sure. The hardened tips are hard for me to see any marks on.
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Post  cool40 March 14th 2015, 8:51 pm

Lem Evans wrote:You have a PAC 1228 spring ?

If so, run it closer to coil bind.
That may be the best. Maybe advancing the cam will get the rpm back under control.
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Post  dfree383 March 14th 2015, 8:53 pm

cool40 wrote:
dfree383 wrote:What's the valve tip and rocker roller tip look like?
round and shiny. ... Laughing  rockers look new.I thought the valves had a few different marks on them like they were turning but not really sure. The hardened tips are hard for me to see any marks on.

Star pattern on the valve tip?
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Post  cool40 March 14th 2015, 10:18 pm

dfree383 wrote:
cool40 wrote:
dfree383 wrote:What's the valve tip and rocker roller tip look like?
round and shiny. ... Laughing  rockers look new.I thought the valves had a few different marks on them like they were turning but not really sure. The hardened tips are hard for me to see any marks on.

Star pattern on the valve tip?
Valve spring cup 20150314_205459
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Post  dfree383 March 14th 2015, 10:36 pm

Tough to see...... Any marks on the keepers? Hard to get off?
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Post  cool40 March 14th 2015, 10:59 pm

dfree383 wrote:Tough to see...... Any marks on the keepers? Hard to get off?
not really.....I didn't run it much last year but did check the springs. A couple were less tha others but none under 260#. I'm Thinking where it "wanted " to run was above the happy place for the springs. Also like Lem said I should have had them closer to coil binding. I didn't check them when new but they should have been 300# @ 2.070.
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Post  Lem Evans March 15th 2015, 10:49 am

cool40 wrote:
Lem Evans wrote:You have a PAC 1228 spring ?

If so, run it closer to coil bind.
That may be the best. Maybe advancing the cam will get the rpm back under control.

You may be better to run the 1224 spring that set at 2.00"......at least on the exh. side.

Exh. lobe lift?

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Post  cool40 March 15th 2015, 11:46 am

Lem Evans wrote:
cool40 wrote:
Lem Evans wrote:You have a PAC 1228 spring ?

If so, run it closer to coil bind.
That may be the best. Maybe advancing the cam will get the rpm back under control.

You may be better to run the 1224 spring that set at 2.00"......at least on the exh. side.

Exh. lobe lift?
exh lift is 810 wo lash i think. I also remember putting +.050 locks on it so I could change them instead of shimming for the 1228's. I'd take a little more psi to keep from beating on the valve train at 7800-8000 rpm.
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Post  Lem Evans March 15th 2015, 11:57 am

Agreed, use the locks instead of a herd of shims.

When the spring is operated way above coil bind the open load is to light.

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Post  cool40 March 15th 2015, 12:43 pm

It's been running @ .120 from coil bind. 1228's with std locks will put me @ .070.... Idea
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Post  Lem Evans March 15th 2015, 1:08 pm

cool40 wrote:It's been running @ .120 from coil bind. 1228's with std locks will put me @ .070.... Idea

But, the exh. will still be ~ 1/8" above c.b.

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Post  torino501 March 15th 2015, 1:15 pm

i am by no means an expert when choosing valve springs. but is that weld in that area by the spring cup....? maybe machined wrong after the repair...?

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Post  cool40 March 15th 2015, 6:44 pm

torino501 wrote:i am by no means an expert when choosing valve springs. but is that weld in that area by the spring cup....? maybe machined wrong after the repair...?
casting flaw where the water plug hole was.nice welding job though.
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