Solid lifter valve adjustment frequency

How often should you need to adjust a SFT valvetrain????

I have a Comp cams solid flat camshaft with Howards face oiling lifters. Comp/Manley pushrods, PRW stainless roller rockers and PRW stud girdle. I'm turning this thing about 6400rpm each pass and the D2 PI heads have stock valves with Comp 987 dual springs shimmed. I check the the valvetrain after each race along with cutting open the oil filter. I put 9 passes on the car last weekend and as usual I find a couple that need adjusting. The cam specs .022" lash, I usually find one or two that are .025-.026". The engine is working great, nothing out of the ordinary in the oil filter. My hope is to get through the summer and have good race valves put in the heads next winter along with some more porting unless the $$$ are there for some SCJ aluminum heads.

I like to pull the covers off and havea look every 7-8 passes. hell i still got the same oil and filter in it from a year ago lol.

I like to stay on top of em too. Make sure you are setting them the same way each time and record the ones that are off so you can look back and see if there is a pattern / problem developing . There's more than one way to set em .
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Only one to be adjusted this time and I think it was an adjustment error by yours truly last time. #6 intake rocker arm was .026". I usually adjust the valve slightly tight, snug the lock nut down against the rocker stud and re-check it. The adjustment is usually perfect - in my mind:) once the lock nut has pulled the adjuster up on the threads. I then tighten up the stud girdle. I was taught to adjust the valves on a 60 series Detroit this way, if you didn't make the a smidge tight before you torqued the jamb nut they would always be looser than you wanted once they were torqued. I'm open to suggestions if you guys have a faster or more consistant way. 

Look up Dragzine 'How to adjust valves like a pro' 

All engines are different ... adjust them whenever they need to be adjusted. Check them often.

There are reasons for it but my maintenance schedule has become pulling the valve covers after EVERY pass for a quick inspection, checking valve lash after every race weekend, and changing oil/filter after every 3 race weekends. I also now have screens in the heads return oil passages as well as in the lifter galley. If I find a repeat valve lash in excess of .005 loose, I start digging.

I'd check the lash abd inspect the valvetrain parts before every race and write down the findings in a log book. Should be no reason to relash, unless something is going on.

I made not of the loose rocker arm this time so I can look for a pattern next time. 

I check em before loading every race.

Barney wrote:I check em before loading every race.

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To me checking AFTER a race would be preferred. If there is an issue, you have time to fix before the next race.

I check them right after each race so I have some time to deal with any damage I find. There are races this weekend about 5hrs away from here but my next "home" race is August 16-17.

If I may, offer an approach to your maintenance question. When an engine is new, we check the areas you mention closely and frequently. Looking for changes in lash, valve tip wear, rocker arm wear, pushrod condition and spring pressures. Once the engine "settles in" our routine maintenance follows a 25 run schedule. Oil, oil filter (changed, opened, inspected), fuel filter and yes, ALL valve train components. If the 25 run maintenance schedule becomes uneventful, we move the maintenance schedule to 50 runs as long as the engine performs consistently. We have very good results following the above guidelines.

Dave.

you guys always go to exactly whats on cam card ? or it being every engine is different there always a happy medium.

i have heard of guys setting lash on a cold engine vs a hot engine

5pointslow wrote:you guys always go to exactly whats on cam card ? or it being every engine is different there always a happy medium.

i have heard of guys setting lash on a cold engine vs a hot engine

The cam card is a compromise ... .006" either way on intake OR exhaust to whatever will give the best performance.