timing question

Got the new motor running. My question is it starts and runs the best @50* timing I don't think theirs anyway that's right? 632 thor w/16.5 comp I would guess it should of been somewhere in between 28-32 max? Is their something I'm missing? Thanks

Only thing that you might check is the polarity of your crank trigger wires...and double check TDC of your timing pointer.
It should like something close to 32.
Keith

Not using a crank trigger. Will triple check tdc again thanks

OK I'm not sure what went wrong or when but when I bring #1 up to tdc the pointer is reading 20* witch I'm guessing puts the timing at 30* with that said what's that doing to cam timing? Obviously the keyway on crank shaft is not cut right in the crank shaft. Is their anything that could of got hurt in the motor? I'm going to take the front of motor apart and re degree the cam, and check everything again? Trying to make a race next weekend hope nothing got hurt..

when you degreed the cam , you used the dampner to degree it?
Frank
if you did I'd be spending some money on someone with some knowledge to help you ! before you turn that motor into scrap!

What balancer did you use for the build ?
There is more than one " zero" position depending on the balancer spec.
Some are built with zero at 10 o'clock and some at 11 o clock.
But that should have been discovered during mock up and assembly when the cam was degreed. (Per Frsnks question)
Danny Bee or timing chain?
The most variation that I have experienced with crank keyway is a couple degrees.
Keith

I think a ati not sure off the top of my head. It does have marks all the way around. No I didn't use the balancer to degree cam?? It has a chain In it.

When you degreed your cam, you determined TDC..
As the balancer and pointer are installed, the same TDC and zero pointer calibration must be checked and adjusted if needed.
If the heads are on..a spark plug type TDC stop can be used. Unhook the rockers on # 1 if using a TDC stop through the spark plug hole to prevent valve contact with the tool.
Call if you need help.
Keith
678-458-2033

When I degreed cam I did not have balancer on? I might call u later Keith if the offer is still on the table. Thanks

Any time

I always use the TDC stop to make my 0 mark on the balancer , I never trust them , I learned the hard way years ago when I melted pistons in a brand new motor (306'') with nitrous , the 0 mark/TDC on the balancer was exactly two inches off , so now I pay no mind to the marks on a balancer other than the one I put on it.

nuclearcobra wrote:I always use the TDC stop to make my 0 mark on the balancer , I never trust them , I learned the hard way years ago when I melted pistons in a brand new motor (306'') with nitrous , the 0 mark/TDC on the balancer was exactly two inches off , so now I pay no mind to the marks on a balancer other than the one I put on it.

Me too. The piston stop method quickly tells if the pointer/balancer marks are correct. I've made lots of new pointers as a result. Moroso timing tape on the balancer is the cheap fix.

Just remember Fatal if you use the TDC stop to mark it ,don't just mark it once when it hits the stop and leave it , you have to then turn it over in the opposite direction until it hits the stop again and make your second mark and in between the two marks is true TDC.

What he said^^^^^^^^^

Thanks guys still working it out I'll let everybody know what I come up with. Thanks again..

OK boys I can't find anything wrong with cam timing or ignition timing what else would hold motor back from turning any rpm? Won't go past 6000 don't matter if its a 30' run or 150' run.. this thing is pissing me off...lol

My buddys mustang I just finished up wouldn't go past 6k , we changed the 6al box, msd distributor,and coil and went through the carb twice, the regulator and rebuilt the pump, what it finally turned out to be was all the grounds, when he wired the car he never scraped any paint off any of the surfaces, and when he re did it all he also ground the msd 6al wire by itself instead of to the grounding block he was using, and added a wire from the outside of the box to ground as well.

Think im gettin it put a 50 ft pass turned 7200!! Went through carb again and bam runs and sounds awesome of course I broke it so I can race tomorrow but oh well I'm happy it run better now if I can get about 1000 more rpm I'll be real happy.

Good deal

Also want to throw out a thank you to Keith for talking to me and helping work out this bug... thanks again

Good to hear that things are better.
Thanks!
Keith