hydraulic roller cam with solid roller lifters

I was looking at the specs on a M-6007-521FT FRPP crate engine.
I was wondering if it would be feasible to run a hydraulic roller cam with solid roller lifters and use tight lash on that engine. How tight of lash would it have to be cold/hot?
One of my concerns is that the engine is 10 to 1 compression and would it run on 91 octane (all we get here in AZ) with a smaller cam. I don’t drive the car in the hot summer months, but don’t want it borderline pinging either.
Also what would be a better solid roller lifter for durability on the street?
Would I still have to keep the idle up around 1400 rpm’s for the hydraulic roller cam and solid roller lifters to live on the street?

Thanks.

You can't do that.for you build the hyd .roller.cam good enough for your 10.1 comp.

Most my race motors all solid rollers.bit they but they wear out your valve springs faster due to the lifter not pumping down like a hydraulic lifter low maintenance IMO.

I've read of several people doing this. The Hyd cam offers a much more street friendly lobe profile requiring a much more tolerant spring rate.
Lash is much tighter than a Hyd setup. I'll defer to those with more experience to quote those specs. Use a bushed roller, solid roller lifter and you'll be golden. Idle can be much lower than 1400 rpm as the roller lifters are pressure oiled fed.

I'm considering this cam setup for a 533 SCJA V-drive Drag Boat.

nickbay wrote:I was looking at the specs on a M-6007-521FT FRPP crate engine.
I was wondering if it would be feasible to run a hydraulic roller cam with solid roller lifters and use tight lash on that engine. How tight of lash would it have to be cold/hot?
One of my concerns is that the engine is 10 to 1 compression and would it run on 91 octane (all we get here in AZ) with a smaller cam. I don’t drive the car in the hot summer months, but don’t want it borderline pinging either.
Also what would be a better solid roller lifter for durability on the street?
Would I still have to keep the idle up around 1400 rpm’s for the hydraulic roller cam and solid roller lifters to live on the street?

Thanks.

I am curious ... why not just run a specific "street" roller camshaft ...? Unless you are looking to get below 224 degrees @.050" for a "driver" type application, I don't see any benefit other than being able to have really tight lash settings like .004"/.006" cold.

rmcomprandy wrote:

nickbay wrote:I was looking at the specs on a M-6007-521FT FRPP crate engine.
I was wondering if it would be feasible to run a hydraulic roller cam with solid roller lifters and use tight lash on that engine. How tight of lash would it have to be cold/hot?
One of my concerns is that the engine is 10 to 1 compression and would it run on 91 octane (all we get here in AZ) with a smaller cam. I don’t drive the car in the hot summer months, but don’t want it borderline pinging either.
Also what would be a better solid roller lifter for durability on the street?
Would I still have to keep the idle up around 1400 rpm’s for the hydraulic roller cam and solid roller lifters to live on the street?

Thanks.

I am curious ... why not just run a specific "street" roller camshaft ...? Unless you are looking to get below 224 degrees @.050" for a "driver" type application, I don't see any benefit other than being able to have really tight lash settings like .004"/.006" cold.

I didn't know there was a "street" solid roller camshaft that would be durable and I thought the hydraulic ramp profile and tight lash might help with durability. I would not want a cam as small as 224, the cam the crate motor comes with according to FRPP is not streetable. I read that their tech line said the valve springs would only last 2000 miles on the street. I have not gotten a hold of them yet though.
I was pondering the XR294HR. 242/248 dur at .050, (with solid roller lifters) but was wondering whether it would run on 91 octane. I take it you don't think that would be a good idea.
The car is not a daily driver. My idea of durable would be to be able to go at least 10,000 miles without changing lifters or valve springs. I don't mind checking lash every 1000 miles.
If a custom cam would work, I am all ears. I only ask all these questions to learn from the experts. Thank you very much for your reply, I appreciate your help.

nickbay wrote:

rmcomprandy wrote:

nickbay wrote:I was looking at the specs on a M-6007-521FT FRPP crate engine.
I was wondering if it would be feasible to run a hydraulic roller cam with solid roller lifters and use tight lash on that engine. How tight of lash would it have to be cold/hot?
One of my concerns is that the engine is 10 to 1 compression and would it run on 91 octane (all we get here in AZ) with a smaller cam. I don’t drive the car in the hot summer months, but don’t want it borderline pinging either.
Also what would be a better solid roller lifter for durability on the street?
Would I still have to keep the idle up around 1400 rpm’s for the hydraulic roller cam and solid roller lifters to live on the street?

Thanks.

I am curious ... why not just run a specific "street" roller camshaft ...? Unless you are looking to get below 224 degrees @.050" for a "driver" type application, I don't see any benefit other than being able to have really tight lash settings like .004"/.006" cold.

I didn't know there was a "street" solid roller camshaft that would be durable and I thought the hydraulic ramp profile and tight lash might help with durability. I would not want a cam as small as 224, the cam the crate motor comes with according to FRPP is not streetable. I read that their tech line said the valve springs would only last 2000 miles on the street. I have not gotten a hold of them yet though.
I was pondering the XR294HR. 242/248 dur at .050, (with solid roller lifters) but was wondering whether it would run on 91 octane. I take it you don't think that would be a good idea.
The car is not a daily driver. My idea of durable would be to be able to go at least 10,000 miles without changing lifters or valve springs. I don't mind checking lash every 1000 miles.
If a custom cam would work, I am all ears. I only ask all these questions to learn from the experts. Thank you very much for your reply, I appreciate your help.

There are many "street" roller lobe profiles available with "not so aggressive" flank rates which could be custom ground in your application; the FT package had the latest springs.
That 521 "514" crate engine was available with three different roller spring packages over the years; the first was the most street friendly but, wasn't enough pressure for a race engine so, they changed 'em.

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