2000 Mustang GT BBF Drag Week Build

Building a new car to get ready for this years Drag week. (on the wait list but near the top of it)

Starting with new to me car:
















Got the car home and after some more exploration realized it needed some love. a lot of love.

Pulled the carpet and found this happiness:
just some surface rust.


A little wire brush and some paint to clean it up for now:



Some new parts to throw at it

Double adjustable rears:



Single adjust fronts (same as on the car but these haventbeen used.



old brakes



test fit the new ones with the wheels





cleaning up the old spindles with new hubs. going to be black powder coat sans backing plate



8.50 cert on the cage



wire harness, old master, all brake lines, and new mounts for radiator needed to go:



bye bye chopped up harness



Jegs seat brackets for kirkey seats test fitting (little filing needed):



they look nicer than the stock cobraseats:



power with go through the powerglide




Yup BBF motor, shortblock being started




Painted the cage (firewall forward) with Hammered paint. Damn blue tarp makes it seem like i missed half the car! LOL









First day of wiring. Taking a little longer than anticipated since the window and door locks were a last minute undertaking. No matter how hard I tried, I could not get the factory system working. Oh well, just going to make it work directly from each component and wire from there to new relays and switches. I think i Have a plan to make it look factory.

So far I have the headlight,front parking, and front turns ran to the dash (not terminated into the relay panel yet). I will be using the Bussman RTMR relay panels for the chassis harness (lights, windows, trunk popper, ect) and an ARC 8000 for engine stuff (fans, water, starter, ignition, fuel, trans cooler fan)

Protective loom even in the door! Got rid of the entire factory harness in the doors, rewires the locks and windows (just cause)



Headlight harness- passenger side. DT connectors, abrasion protection, and dual wall shrink wrap.



Drivers Side - same connectors as passenger side- you can see the grounds- will be fully bolted to a ground lug attached to the frame rails





One window down! One to go!




Using the Bussman Fuse and relay blocks to get everything terminated. I probably could have used a couple less connectors but I wanted things to be able to be serviced or added on to easy.

Bussman relay panel:




Turn signal switch repinned for the DT connector. I am not using the wiper side, nor am I am using the high beam wiring, although I left the ability later on.



The backside of the Bussman panel- the Fuse side is bussed possitive, the relay side is bussed on the negative terminal. Really easy to wire up.



Just the harnesses from the Bussman switch side and the Power/output side. I loomed it all and used shrink wrap on the ends.



Headlight harness from the switch to the front of the car. The red and white wire(inline brake switch wire) will be loomed with the wire from the line lock once they are in place.



The whole kit minus the rear of the harness. I probably have 4 days into this easy (i kept redoing it till I was happy with it) Could probably make another in a day using this as a template.



Little video of bench testing it. Finally getting the lights to work off the factory switch.

https://vid455.photobucket.com/albums...pse7dhis1i.mp4

I did all this the first go around with mine also. now I have manual windows and blinkers on a toggle switch my head lights on the factory switch I took another 5lbs out of mine with the new wiring almost 25lbs out going to manual windows.

Looking good

Great lookin project! Cant wait to see the finished product

gmsmkr wrote:I did all this the first go around with mine also.  now I have manual windows and blinkers on a toggle switch my head lights on the factory switch I took another 5lbs out of mine with the new wiring almost 25lbs out going to manual windows.

Looking good

what year car?

Same Gen as yours, looking good nice to see more BBF's representing at Drag Week!

frank13 wrote:

gmsmkr wrote:I did all this the first go around with mine also.  now I have manual windows and blinkers on a toggle switch my head lights on the factory switch I took another 5lbs out of mine with the new wiring almost 25lbs out going to manual windows.

Looking good

what year car?

2000

got any pics?

frank13 wrote:got any pics?

My build is on here under mustang pics

Out of curiosity. Where did you get the manual stuff????

Only place I saw it was over 300 bucks.

From 94-98 mustang v6 from junk yard it was 10$ ea for the internals.....

What we have are called new edge chassis but they are known as a sn chassis if that makes sense so any part from 79-04 will work with out alot of mods

My car has a fox rear width and all with the all fox internals which narrowed it by 2"s I have post on regarding all the mods for our chassis if you need any help just ask I will post more

Have done DW a couple times with a 460 Ford had a blast... I'm on the waiting list also see you at DW

looking good Frank did you sale your other car

Ok, so to leave well enough alone is not my thing. I have looked through every wiring thread known to man and decided to make a cosmetic change. Along with that change was an order to DelCity for some finishing touches on the panel and the power distribution. Now once the panel is bolted in I can leave it in and keep the battery hooked up so I can open the windows and pop the trunk (putting the windows down makes moving the car easier by myself)

FIrst off some supplies. 4 gauge power wire for the starter and to the panel. Some 6gauge for floating grounds for. Along with some different sized lugs and boots for safety. Picked up a couple pass through for the firewall.



Nice and flexible wires!





Now for some small changes. I used two plugs for the input and outputs of the panel. Well, I was not always happy with them floating around, even when tied to the panel. SO I decided to step up to the Duestche HDP-20 panel mount connectors. Simple change but i think it will be worth it in the end as I will be happier. Even got some boots to make it all pretty. I didn't use Raychem for this stuff as I think I may add nitrous in the near future and wanted to be able to make a simple change to the harness.



Connectors and more connectors. AND boots!!!!




Little close up!



I just think this works better and looks better, and we all know if you can not be fast, you better look good!



SO the goal is to have this permanently mounted this week. Get the engine in and then run the wire and stuff for that!

[quote=MrScharfenberger;1543218]Very Nice!! Doing Drag Week would be awesome.

I'm not sure if you got the windows done or not yet but the below info was a post on my build thread. It is a 1993 but perhaps the connectors & wiring stayted the same.[/quote]

Oooooooooooooooh I almost forgot.....Power windows are a go! With the help of a couple YB'ers we finally have success!

Let me leave this video here!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqLFdmcHkmg

69F100 wrote:looking good Frank did you sale your other car

Currently its a parts car.

Nice work it should look clean when completed

[quote="frank13"]

69F100 wrote:looking good Frank did you sale your other car

Currently its a parts car.  [/quot

I see you still got your helper helping you or she into boys and no time to help you any more

So a little change of pace from the wiring. I have decided that to get things finalized with wires and such, I need the shortblock, converter and trans in the car. Sooooooooo down to the tiny tiny space I call the basement.

So I already had the shortblock together, but a change in direction (a 150-250 shot of nitrous) I had to pull it apart and open the ring gap a tad)

The machine shop did all the clearances for me when they fixed the crank and honed the block, but I wanted to double check so out came the plastigage.



dead on at .003



So the crank is spinning nice and smooth!!!!!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ec_TcbZKTOs&feature=youtu.be

Here are some pics of the parts going into the shortblock:













Starting to check the ring gap:















Oh, are you wondering why I dont have video of the shortblock being spun nice and smooth? Well. Here goes:



Oops......Gotta order a set of damn rings now. (yes a set......one ring pack is 32 bucks, a complete set can be had online on sale for 82 bucks. I will just have some spares)

Ok so back to building the shortblock! So I was able to get a set of rings the same day from my engine guy. Crisis averted.

Got everything together and poof I have a complete rotating assembly installed. Or so I thought! I am new to all this stuff so the gents who give me tech advice and talk me through stuff asked about end play and rod clearances.

So feeler gauges come out and viola- we have the correct rod clearnaces! Sweet! Then crank end play. I was at the shop when they redid my crank and installed it in the block and we had the .006 end play, BUT , I do not have it now. No big deal, pull the rods off and check again. Nope. less than .004. Give it a whack after loosening the main caps. Nope. Same. Fast forward to today, and I have an actual dial indicator, some 1000 grit paper, some glass, and hopefully a lot of patience waiting for amazon same day shipping to show up!


I think after 4 hours I have it right.

Just at 6 at full 110ftlbs

That was not fun at all!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SzwbVSVsZ50&feature=youtu.be

Piston and rod reinstall next! For the 103984 time!

Well once I figure out the ARP stud, canton pan, canton windage tray issues.

And we have a rotating assembly!

Clean bore is a happy bore




Cleaned painted and ready to go!







Cam plate from Lem


Every nut and bolts gets chased!  Every thing


Cleaned, cut, cleaned again.



Clean oil on the threads going into the block



Crank bearings are in



And now have some "blood" on them
Beep beep beep.  We have studs!
Crank is in for the last time I hope






Feeling cappy?



ARP ultra torque.   Nice and heavy!



Went through A LOT  of lube!



And we are done for tonight.    Cant find the damn crank bolt.   So i am done for tonight.

Sweet Build!

I assume 466 cubic inches?
SCJ or P51 heads being used?
Looks like a comp solid roller - nitrous grind?

Cheers

Windage tray and oi pump final install


Little primer to get rid of the ugly gold canton color



Better!



Timing cover with the same black as the block



Black and SS look great



Black and SS look great




Tomorrow morning it comes off the stand and gets mated to the trans and converter then into the car!


The trans its getting mated to!



Converter installed on the trans

Ok, so pushrods are measured up and get ordered on Monday,









Ended up with a 9.250 exhaust and a 9.1 intake.......................