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big block / motor plat

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Post  MustangDan January 11th 2014, 6:39 pm

Ok my car is at a chassis shop what is a good height to put the motor with motor plat  / crank center line
Thanks Dan

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Post  dtimmer January 11th 2014, 7:53 pm

A qualified chassis shop should be able to handle all that for you...

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Post  Lem Evans January 11th 2014, 8:12 pm

MustangDan wrote:Ok my car is at a chassis shop what is a good height to put the motor with motor plat  / crank center line
Thanks Dan
 
It's all about getting the engine and oil pan to clear stuff with a fox platform.
 

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Post  MustangDan January 11th 2014, 8:15 pm

^^^ JUST ASKING MAN

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Post  Lem Evans January 11th 2014, 8:21 pm

Don't get excited.....the rack etc. has got to jive with the typical 5" pan for the fox bbf pan.

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Post  yellowhorse7 January 11th 2014, 8:35 pm

Chassis section. Search my posts. Rack and headers don't need to be a concern headers can be made to exit up and racks can be custom made as well
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Post  curleysracecars January 12th 2014, 2:18 am

Full chassis car?? Shoot for under 10.5-11". If you can get it at 10", you'll be good, but that usually puts the pan pretty low.
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Post  MustangDan January 12th 2014, 11:04 am

.


Last edited by MustangDan on January 12th 2014, 11:56 am; edited 1 time in total

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Post  Wheelie58 January 12th 2014, 11:12 am

Lots of good tips already. My input would be to hang a mock-up engine with oil pan, headers and transmission case all bolted together in the car to help determine the exact best location. It is usually better to do this if you plan to use off the shelf headers and pan. Otherwise, you may end up making custom parts or modifying.
Using the trans case lets the builder plan the driveline length and angles too.
Make sure to plan enough clearance to make transmission removal easy, for future routine maintenance.
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Post  Wheelie58 January 12th 2014, 11:16 am

Dan,
I think he meant 10" from the ground to crank centerline. That is relatively normal in a full tube chassis car in some applications.
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Post  MustangDan January 12th 2014, 11:55 am

That's what I thought after I posted that lol 
I also have 10.5 tires 
So would 13 be to hi

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Post  MustangDan January 12th 2014, 11:59 am

The guys just use to sbc and putting motors up hi for weight transfer and I don't think I need mine up hi in car  would think car would be to violent of a take off

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Post  Wheelie58 January 12th 2014, 12:42 pm

MustangDan wrote:The guys just use to sbc and putting motors up hi for weight transfer and I don't think I need mine up hi in car  would think car would be to violent of a take off
It is going to be violent regardless of crank centerline..an inch or 2 one way or another. If the firewall is still in the car....it kind of limits height.
Also, back to my comments about headers and pan fit....
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Post  BigRigTech January 12th 2014, 12:58 pm

I've never measured my crank centreline off the floor but my FRPP swap pan is a hair away from my manual rack. I have a Comp Eng Front plate and I just bought a mid plate from Keith so that is my next project. I'll use an empty block/heads and gutted C6 trans for mockup. My tunnel was altered for a glide with a Ultrabell but I'm considering modding it some more to make pulling the C6 without touching the engine a reality. Now would be the time to do it. I have limiters that go from the block to the k-member to keep the front plate from flexing fore and aft.
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Post  Wheelie58 January 12th 2014, 1:16 pm

Yeah...
A little extra planning and work during fabrication time sure makes it easier, especially if you have to make a panic transmission R&R at the track.
I keep tweaking my setup to simplify maintenance.
Keith
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Post  rmcomprandy January 12th 2014, 1:45 pm

I have a 1/4" thick STEEL front motor plate available for Big Block "Fox" conversions which has locating slots in the plate to sit right over the welded seams in the front production frame section of a Fox chassis.
If THAT front frame part is tubing then you are on your own to make everything right.

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Post  MustangDan January 12th 2014, 4:31 pm

Yes it is a tube k member

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Post  MustangDan January 12th 2014, 4:33 pm

What headers you run

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Post  BigRigTech January 12th 2014, 4:42 pm

In my case I have an AJE tubular k-member and QA1 tubular lower arms with coil over conversion. My headers are Hooker super comps, 2" prim, 3.5" collectors
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Post  MustangDan January 12th 2014, 4:45 pm

That's the way mine is set up 
But I have to run 2.1/4 headers for tfsA heads

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Post  rmcomprandy January 12th 2014, 6:13 pm

MustangDan wrote:Yes it is a tube k member

Not concerned about the K-member. The actual FRAME is the mitigating factor.

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Post  MustangDan January 12th 2014, 7:14 pm

Ok what about fram rail

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Post  rmcomprandy January 12th 2014, 7:52 pm

rmcomprandy wrote:I have a 1/4" thick STEEL front motor plate available for Big Block "Fox" conversions which has locating slots in the plate to sit right over the welded seams in the front production frame rail section of a Fox chassis.
If THAT front FRAME part is tubing then you are on your own to make everything right.

AGAIN

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Post  MustangDan January 12th 2014, 8:22 pm

Mine is 1/4 alum with weld on tabs so you can put it were ever you want 
Got them from skinny kid

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