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need help with my slug

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Post  ctdck August 28th 2018, 9:25 pm

Ok guys, bought me a 1997 ford crew cab short bed back in May. Was hoping for the power stroke for what I was going to do with it, but it had the 460 FI , the truck was in great shape I couldn't pass it up, they say this was the last year of the good ones. I pull a 35 ft travel trailer and do a lot of camping with the grand kids all the time, but this thing seems to run real well but is a slug. From what I read up on its speed density and not mass air flow, so I really am limited on doing many motor mods. I don't have to worry about emissions here in Michigan. Was wondering if I should buy a stand alone computer for the transmission take the rest of the fuel injection stuff off and put my own carb, distributor and cam on. I can buy a adapter to put the carb on the FI intake and keep the small port high velocity heads on and see how that does, maybe that would suit me better for power. I don't know or should I bite the bullet and stroke this thing either 4.300 or 4.500 unsure on the stroke yet cause of rod angle and ring seal for longevity and put the small port high velocity heads on or look for a good set of pi heads. Its my first FI 460 motor i've ever had, the rest have been carbed. Small port high velocity heads are not impressing me, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated Thanks

ctdck

Posts : 49
Join date : 2009-08-12
Location : Lake City, MI

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Post  rmcomprandy August 28th 2018, 9:40 pm

ctdck wrote:Ok guys, bought me a 1997 ford crew cab short bed back in May. Was hoping for the power stroke for what I was going to do with it, but it had the 460 FI , the truck was in great shape I couldn't pass it up, they say this was the last year of the good ones. I pull a 35 ft travel trailer and do a lot of camping with the grand kids all the time, but this thing seems to run real well but is a slug. From what I read up on its speed density and not mass air flow, so I really am limited on doing many motor mods. I don't have to worry about emissions here in Michigan. Was wondering if I should buy a stand alone computer for the transmission take the rest of the fuel injection stuff off and put my own carb, distributor and cam on. I can buy  a adapter to put the carb on the FI intake and keep the small port high velocity heads on and see how that does,  maybe that would suit me better for power. I don't know or should I bite the bullet and stroke this thing either 4.300 or 4.500  unsure on the stroke yet cause of rod angle and ring seal for longevity and put the small port high velocity heads on or look for a good set of pi heads. Its my first FI 460 motor i've ever had, the rest have been carbed.  Small port high velocity heads are not impressing me, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated    Thanks  

IF you intend to go with a carburetor and not do a lot on that ... change the cam, put some headers on it with low restriction exhaust system and ditch the intake manifold then, use the Price Motorsports adapters to get a decent "Performer" intake on it.

If you are going to get into it further and change the engine specifics, make it 500 inches with a 4.150" stroke kit, (more will really drink gasoline), put larger intake valves in it, deck the block to "zero" and get some compression ratio in it. Along with the camshaft and intake/exhaust manifold above.

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Post  ctdck August 30th 2018, 4:09 pm

Forgot to mention about puting headers on thanks rmcomprandy. Anybody else thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.
thanks

ctdck

Posts : 49
Join date : 2009-08-12
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Post  The Mad Porter September 2nd 2018, 3:43 pm

Check initial timing with spout removed. Set at 13 to 14 degrees BTDC.
Sometimes the dizzy is frozen in the block and timing is retarded due to chain stretch and lack of reset at tune up. I've had them come in at 6*btdc lol.
Free flowing exhaust with headers. The OEM cat is not terrible if not damaged or plugged.
Low restriction air cleaner.

At this point you can remove the silencer horns midway in the dual air intake hoses.


I've done air flow testing of the Oem intake with some port work at the end of the runners, vs. the performer intake and PCM adapters. The OEM intake with attention to the last 1.5 to 2" of the runners and the EFI to Carb intake adapter is actually better. Mary at PCM makes an HP adapter I helped create. Larger bores for a 750 and an oval over the shallow side of the plenum.

A properly sorted out EFI engine with 9 to 9.2 to 1 static, 612 cp pistons at tight quench.
2.11" / 1.65" valves, pocket work and decked to 90 cc's
207 / 219 custom voodoo cam
Ported EFI intake
Blah blah blah...

...will make 525 lb ft of torque at 3200 rpm, 400 hp + or - 10 at 4600 to 4700 rpm and over 500 lb feet at 2,800 rpm which is as low as we pull the engine at WOT. The aforementioned numbers are STD correction or Gross numbers. For your stated application the EFI parts are exactly what you need!

The factory SD efi will run this combo easily. Aeromotive adjustable FP regulator set to about 46 psi at sea level works well. The 33 gph oem fuel pumps and 24 pound injectors are at their limits with this combination of parts. 255 lph modules are available as are 26# injectors.

In all fairness the combo runs a bit better better with a Carb due to charge cooling that you do not get with a dry EFI set up.


Feel free to use this link as a guide:

https://www.facebook.com/pg/PpamLLC/photos/?tab=album&album_id=449921202052229

Finally at larger displacements you can get 625 TQ and near 500 hp with the OEM EFI heads and intake with the mods I've outlined...

Hope this helps.


S
The Mad Porter
The Mad Porter

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