Machine shop ?

Do you machine shop guy's give receipts listing all work that's done, as well as all the specs?
Thanks

depends on what you've had done, a stock rebuild, no...... a full race build, yes. Your paying for the Blueprint on the race stuff.

Oh, i'm having an a460 block align honed, bored and honed with plates, square decked and rings filed. Should i have to ask for it all?
Thanks

For the line hone did you Give them your Crank and Bearings to fit the mains? Thats the only reason to have it line honed IMO.

For a square decking it, did you tell them what deck height you wanted?

For the Bore, Hone and Ring Fit, you gave them the bore size you wanted and the hone finish you required right? on the rings you told them what gaps you wanted right?

Basicly you need to know what you want in order for them to do the work and then remeasure everything to make sure everything is right.

No he didnt ask for crank nor bearings. Wouldnt he just hone to std specs?
Rings are gonna be set for a 250 shot.
The deck, he said like .005 cut off.
With him having a piston, wouldnt he know what bore?
Thanks

tconnection wrote:No he didnt ask for crank nor bearings. Wouldnt he just hone to std specs?
Rings are gonna be set for a 250 shot.
The deck, he said like .005 cut off.
With him having a piston, wouldnt he know what bore?
Thanks

What????? Any decent shop needs to know what crank and rods as well as the piston to set the deck height properly. Otherwise it's just a guess. Same goes for the main honing. He can do it for std specs, but if your crank is a little large or small, then your clearances won't be right when you put it together.


Gee Dave, the things I've learned the last couple of years.

I see what you're saying.He said he got two builds ahead of my block so maybe he'll be calling me when he get to it.
Question, is it possible that it all be correct if he just hone the mains within oe specs and just square deck .005 off the 10.322 block? I may have to go with a stdx bearing or under.
Thanks

if my crank was new and it was small or large it would go back where it came from.if your not concerned with "0"deck then that wont be an issue as far as the deck squaring goes. JMO

This same shop balanced the rotating assembly. The crank is new and the jurnals is .001 under.
To get ''0'' deck, the crank, bearing, a rod and piston is needed?
''0'' deck, is that when the piston top edge is even with the deck?

The Crank, Rods and Pistons need to be assembles into the block and deck height measured, then you can "0" deck the Block.

and Yes that is when the top of the piston edge is flush with the deck, the you use head gasket thickness to determine you quench distance.

tconnection wrote:This same shop balanced the rotating assembly. The crank is new and the jurnals is .001 under.
To get ''0'' deck, the crank, bearing, a rod and piston is needed?
''0'' deck, is that when the piston top edge is even with the deck?

yes,thats the only way to know what to take off the deck.on a new block i would'nt go to "0",i'd want a little left for later.JMO

No, i'm not wanting ''0'' deck. You're right, nor do i want max bore.
Thanks alot for all the info.

If there is no direct number given by the customer the decks will simply be made parallel and square to one another with "minimum metal removal".
Actual finished bore size is immaterial IF there is a certain "clearance" to be given for piston to wall clearance and he has a piston to work from.
IF you don't request certain "end gaps" for the rings he will set them where he has experience to what they will need to work correctly in the finished engine.
Some A460 blocks are UNDER the minimum spec on the main bores so, he may have done the line hone to get it to the normal factory spec.

In those cases, it is for the builder to record actual finished sizing. He does have measuring tools, correct...?
Unless it is simply an assembler who is mating parts to get to the final engine. Then he will probably have to ASK for what the machined numbers are; (ahead of time so they will get recorded).

kjett wrote:

tconnection wrote:No he didnt ask for crank nor bearings. Wouldnt he just hone to std specs?
Rings are gonna be set for a 250 shot.
The deck, he said like .005 cut off.
With him having a piston, wouldnt he know what bore?
Thanks

What????? Any decent shop needs to know what crank and rods as well as the piston to set the deck height properly. Otherwise it's just a guess. Same goes for the main honing. He can do it for std specs, but if your crank is a little large or small, then your clearances won't be right when you put it together.


Gee Dave, the things I've learned the last couple of years.

I think you have "machine shop" and "engine building shop" intertwined and THAT is not usually the case.
Any DECENT machine shop gives you the finished machining numbers YOU ask for.

I guess its because the shop I used did the entire balancing of the rotating assembly as well as set my ring gaps and we checked all the clearances together to make sure everything was right. You are right though, there are machine shops and there are assembly shops and they are NOT the same!

This shop does alot of building also.
OOOOverall here, it's just that it seems to me that when i talk, ask or tell this fellow something, sometimes he act like im getting on his nerve. And i guess im trying to confort myself talking and learning from you guys. Im fixin to call him and ask him to record main bore specs, cylinder bore, piston to wall clearance and what came off the deck.

tconnection wrote:This shop does alot of building also.
OOOOverall here, it's just that it seems to me that when i talk, ask or tell this fellow something, sometimes he act like im getting on his nerve. And i guess im trying to confort myself talking and learning from you guys. Im fixin to call him and ask him to record main bore specs, cylinder bore, piston to wall clearance and what came off the deck.

he may not like to talk that much about his job,some dont.if you look at it from his side i'm sure he has the same questions from every customer about the same things.sometimes too many questions makes them feal like you dont trust them.

My block is ready for pick up. Im going to pick it up tom. I hope he got it on point

tconnection wrote:My block is ready for pick up. Im going to pick it up tom. I hope he got it on point

Do you know Chuck in Alma with the Red Mustang and his brother has a white mustang also if you do Chuck should beable to help you out.If you don't mind what Machine shop are you using I am going to have a block setup for a stroker kit sometime in the near future needs about the same thing you have had done.

Oh yea, i know them. Thier great people. Ive done work for them.
Wild cat performance! I got the block today and it looks good. Its 40lbs lighter. Im gonna paint it ford red tom.

HELLO Tconnection.im from nearby jax.fla.just wondering if you knew Bill Clary from around them parts?THNX MAVMAN

tconnection wrote:Oh yea, i know them. Thier great people. Ive done work for them.
Wild cat performance! I got the block today and it looks good. Its 40lbs lighter. Im gonna paint it ford red tom.

I have herd wildcat does good work but was alittle on the high side I will more than likely use Green Flag in Valdasta I have went down to his shop and talked with him he wants crank,pistons,rods and bearings before he does any machine work.It is getting harder to get him to do any machine work now without him building the engine as he is now wanting to go back and just build race engines

Yea, the cost was 700 for a complete race prep which includes file fit rings and coated cam bearings and oiling mods. Plus he debured it, scraped it pretty good.
It took i think 7 weeks. Green Flag, for just machine work, he said would about winter time. He rather assemble the whole engine.

He got the main bearings honed to 3.1932, 3.1931,3.1932,3.1931,3.1932 and with my crank measuring 2.989 which was turned down by eagle, is there a way that i can get the clearance right without having to buy more than one set of bearings?
Thanks

yes